Bronzewings

Tuesday 4^th September-à Monday 10^th

Well another fairly uneventful week holiday wise, more cleaning (Mary’s new workshop), shifting a few tonne of firewood and gardening ( a new bed for some of Mary’s plants that she keeps buying) but Ray had another poopy on. One day you could have cut the air with a knife and so when we went shopping I decided to go off and get a selection of things to avoid the vibes. Another day when I suggested that I cook, as Mary spends a lot of time in the kitchen, he turned the gas off !!?? Then another day when looking at recipes on how to use up some of the eggs as the chooks are giving about 7 a day he started saying stupid things like he doesn’t eat soup and didn’t want this or that and not in his usual contrary way but in a nasty way so when the crap was directly fired at me I yelled back and then he said something like I was interfering with their lives. Needless to say that was the straw that broke this old camels back so off I went for a walk and a cry. After an hour or two I ventured back to go to bed.

The next day, Friday, I went off for another long walk and left a message that I would eat out, (as they had gone out). I walked for hours along the back roads all around Issy and then feeling tired I went into the old church and sat there for a couple of hours. I decided to eat at the local hotel which is owned by an English couple. I was the only one there! Had some salmon and French fries and some wine. By now it was about 8.30 so I decided I should return to base. Went in and straight up to my room.

Saturday, after some false friendliness and farewells, they left about 10.00 to go on a trip which I was originally to go on as well but I decided against it.

I had decided by now after not much sleep and a great deal of anguish to leave so I packed my bag, spent some time on the net, & looked up some train timetables to take me to the south of France. I was going to leave Sunday and leave Ray’s car at the railway station but I couldn’t bring myself to finalising things as I knew it was the end of all my plans. I dilly dallied around, made a collage of a photo of Ray that I had taken, wrote a long letter, which was in the vein of the celery story (Frazer will know what I mean by this).

Sunday I went into town to buy some bread for the goat and a few other things, but they had sold out, went to the bricante (junk sale) and bought some tulip bulbs. Back to do some more organising etc. and then I heard the car pull up so I couldn’t escape anonymously after all. That night Mary took me into the town as there was a tent set up and some food and wine was being sold to raise money for something. So that was pleasant and I took Ray back some nice meat to be nice. I decided I needed to offload some of my stuff as my bag was way too heavy, so I packed up a carton of papers, shoes and clothes to send back home….so I was dropping a hint.

Monday morning I told them I was going and asked for a lift to the PO and to the train station. Ray went out and Mary and I had a chat. While beating around the bush we smoothed things out so when Ray came back he hinted that I had done little things to annoy them…the only example he gave was that I had turned out the light one night!!

Now a week later I believe that while Ray was the nasty one it was provoked by Mary’s big chip on the shoulder. Remembering a few conversations, I now realise she thought I was having a go at her, when all I was ever doing was making conversation. eg. As they were still setting up their home she was hanging some pictures in a group and I commented that one should be a cm. lower, one was too close to the door frame and another one swapped because the colouring was wrong. She said later that she thought I was interfering when making suggestions regarding the arrangement. Then on the last day I temporarily hung the collage of Ray on the wall amongst this collection (and put hers in a shelf near by), thinking they wouldn’t notice it until some time later and get a surprise, but as it turned out she found it and thought I was interfering with her display and read paranoid meanings in to the collage. Then she pretended that it had fallen to pieces when she took it down!!!!

When they dropped me off there were hugs and kisses and “please come backs” but I was still feeling very offended and hurt…..

Now a week later, the sadness has gone and the anger is easing.

Monday 10^th

Cont…..

This is the day I left Issy l’Eveque and went to Dijon which is the capital of this region known at Bourgogne or as we say, Burgundy. Issy is part of this area in the south in a smaller area known as Saone et Loire…ie where the area of the Saone and the Loire rivers meet. I decided to find a hotel rather than share a room at the hostel so I have time to collect my thoughts etc. After checking in I went for a long walk around the old centre of town of course. There are many wonderful old buildings including the grand old homes with the high walls, hidden entrance courtyard and apparently a garden out the back. I sat for a while in the Italianate style garden near my hotel and the centre of town for a while then decided to skip dinner and have an early night.

Tuesday 11^th

I didn’t take my camera on my walk yesterday so I decide to retrace some of my steps and catch the little tourist bus around to see more of old Dijon. The museums were all closed but that’s too bad. Tried on some beautiful boots I had seen the day before but decided they weren’t as good as what they would have cost me!! While the French love their very pointy toe shoes, the trend in the shops at the moment is to kick the toe up a bit which looks very stylish! Had a big lunch today…plat de jour ..chicken in a light sauce with a big pile of mash …traditional. The French have their main meal at lunch time which is why a lot of businesses close for a couple of hours. Went for a walk down to the canal to get my bearings for my next couple of days as I had hired a bike to do some country trips. There is only so much one can take of charming old cities! Sat in the park again then went back to watch some French TV….after the usual news etc. I found a movie with Jack Nicholson, Dianne Keaton and Keanu Reeves but here they dub the foreign shows instead of using sub titles so that was interesting… but the story was easy to follow so it didn’t really matter …it was just a bit odd! I had bought a little plastic bottle of red .60c, so some of that which was really quite fine and some bread and banana was my dinner!

Wednesday 12^th

Set off at 9.00 on my bike towards the wine growing area south of Dijon. It took me awhile to get out of Dijon as I was a tad confused with the signposts and somehow got back on to the busy road so that was a bit hairy but then when I woke up to myself and checked my map I took the next turn right to get back on track. Well the first little village, Marsannay la-Cote, was quite charming and all the ones to follow on route to Beaune were as well. There weren’t too many hills so with all the variations of windy roads, lanes through the vineyards, the chateaus and the constant flow of vignerons it was a marvellous trip. Signs of vintage were everywhere with the special little vine straddling tractors buzzing around, vans of pickers, bins of grapes and lots of noise coming form the wineries. I did notice some piles of dumped grapes but I don’t know why they would pick them only to dump them. Come mid day I was keen to stop for a little lunch break so I bought some pig’s tongue terrine to have with my roll (from breakfast), a cold drink and an apple and sat just outside the village of Gevrey-Chambertin on one of the stone walls that surrounds the vineyards and soaked up the moment! The first vines apparently were planted here in 640. My lane ways ran out after Nuits St-Georges, except those too steep for me to face, so I had to swap to the other side of the main road but here along with more vineyards there was also open fields, some with sunflowers ready for harvest…..their big heads hanging low and others ploughed ready for the next crop of something. I scared a little deer which ran off through the remains of the stalks into the woods. The sun was shining and typical of here it gets hotter as the afternoon moves along so by the time I reached Beaune I had had enough. Unfortunately I only had a quick look at this wonderful touristy town with the usual narrow windy streets, and charm to boot, even with the very rough cobble stones. Loaded my bike on the train which only took 24 minutes to get me back to Dijon after I had spent 7 hours on my bike! A very early night followed.

Wednesday 13^th

Decided to ride along next to the Canal de Bourgogne to at least get the feel of what I was missing, now that my canal holiday will note eventuate. Arrived down at the port just as a boat was setting off in the same direction as me so I watched them go through the first lock to see how it all works. Then off down the track next to the canal in a dead straight line all the way to St Jean-de-Losne. The track varied from bitumen to rough gravel to a smooth rolled surface and often just dirt. I had to duck when passing the airport as a jet fighter came in to land. I rode over shiny brown chestnuts scattered in my path. I stopped to pick up some walnuts which were sweet and creamy, and a sour apple that I tossed away. The canal was a lovely shade of green and along some parts the algae had been collected and dumped on the side. I came across the little rake boat that does that and then later a truck that was collecting the refuse. On and on I rode but it was a bit tedious even though the vegetation changed, with lots of big trees planted along the edge, corn fields, espalier apple orchards and the little canal houses were every couple of km. I still hadn’t worked the gears out so I had to keep getting off at all the little rises where the bridges and locks were. Although I started to master this on the way back. I finally reached my destination and spoke to a Kiwi family who had just finished their canal holiday and were packing up to go home. Not looking forward to the ride back I spent over an hour here looking around and as this is an intersection of the canal and the river Saone there was a lot of boats tied up in the back water…..some for sale, some for hire and others just moored there I guess. The ride back was difficult as I wasn’t really enjoying it, my derriere was rather sore and it was getting hot again so I set myself some goals and went as fast as I could on the easy sections and I made good time back. I had partially been cured of my disappointment of not having my canal holiday!! Had a drink in a bar with Fosters on tap and signs everywhere thinking I might find an Aussie to talk to but I didn’t pursue it and didn’t hear any one. The drink however settled me down after a tiring day. Went back to change as I had decided to eat out and sample some famous Burgundian food. Well the escargot were tasty although small….the ones in the lane ways around Issy were twice the size, the Boeuf de Bourguignonnes was a bit beef de boring and the chocolate cake was well, OK. The little shops however are full of beautiful things eg the boulongerie - pastries, cakes and buns and the meat shops had gorgeous displays of little terrines..one I remember was a cone shape with smoked salmon and aspic on top.

Friday 14^th

At breakfast this morning I was looking at the daily local paper and what do I find…..an ad for the John Butler Trio…due in Dijon at the end of the month…so that was a surprise and I wonder how an Aussie band gets to sell tickets in the middle of France. I needed a rest day so I spent all morning in my room listening to some music, typing and copying across all my photos and saving them to disc as well, which I hopefully will give to Raelene to take home. Needing a walk I went to the railway station to get my ticket for tomorrow and pick up some time tables but the queue was too long so I gave up with the hope that tomorrow won’t be a problem, then back around town and visited the art museum, bought something to eat, sat in the park and back to the room to type some more and watch France’s version of Idol.

Saturday 15^th

I set the alarm as I wanted to catch the 8.20 to Aix en Provence. Arrived down at the station in nice time to buy my ticket and climb on board dragging my big bag up the steps. I once again passed the area where I had ridden my bike and saw the chateaus and vineyards in the distance but this time I knew what I was seeing. The train was a TGV but not as pleasant as the one from Paris to Le Creusot and when we reached Lyon it became a bit crowded and other people were juggling big bags. I had forgotton to validate my ticket, (which can mean you have to pay twice), so I pretended to be asleep when the conductor came along but next time round I didn’t see him….however he didn’t even say anything and just punched it a couple of extra times. The countryside became dryer and less interesting the further south we went…in Issy it is green all year round. I was scribbling notes in my note book and the man opposite had fallen asleep so I did a quick sketch of him… something I haven’t done for years! On arrival at my destination I realised that the station was way out of town….I should have caught the regional trains instead! I couldn’t see a bus stop so I caught a cab…but he dropped me at the door so that made it easier. I had to leave my bag and come back at 5.00 as some hostels won’t let you in the rooms during the day. I walked into town to get my bearings and have a wander around. My first impressions were disappointing as I had heard of this place way back and as I related it to Cezanne I had romantic ideas I suppose. However lots to look at and many streets to wander around. Feeling weary I headed back to the Auberge, ate and then went down looking for company. Turned out there were two girls from Melbourne so we had a long chat about our travels, teaching, etc. I shared my room with a girl from Canada on her way to Morocco, who left early in the morning, and a German girl who also left the next morning. Comfy room with our own bathroom but the traffic noise went all night I think.

Sunday 16^th

Breakfast was only on for an hour so I nearly missed it as I slept in. I ate with the two girls and another young Sydney couple who were on their way to Italy. Turns out there was a world rugby match here somewhere I think and Australia won! Wandered in to town again to retrace my steps and see what else I could find. I visited some museums and up the hill to Cezanne’s home and sat in his garden for a while. The shops were all shut except the restaurants and bakeries but there was a local fair displaying activities available in Aix and mixed in with this a bit of music and dancing…it helped kill time. Caught the bus back to the hotel again as I was feeling tired again.

The Australian girls Christy and Emma, I think, joined me for a meal cooked by an Italian born in Sydney and now living in Aix…..it was tasty and lots of it so a great value meal for a change.

Monday 17^th

Booked in as a tourist to do an afternoon trip so did some more time-killing... the Vaserely Institute is next to the hostel so went for a look but it was closed. There were about ten on the little mini bus…incl. some French, English, Poms, a yank and a teacher from Brisbane The driver gave a double commentary French/English. We went north west of Aix into the Provence country side, through very dry countryside with pine trees. Vines were the first predominant crop also growing in dry sandy soils unlike the loams of cote de Nuits. The main reason for the trip was to visit some little old villages perched on the tops of hills ( built there for protection in the old days) but when that was no longer necessary some moved down the hill. Rogues was the first one and it looked more Italian than French as they use the rounded tiles here not the flat slate like elsewhere, and there are a lot of dry stacked stone walls and houses and we saw some original homes called bories which are little round domed dwellings. Cadenet, Lourmarin, were next then Bonnieux, where we got out to look around and walk to the top of the hill to a church of course and down to the bottom to another church. Lacoste, was next but just went up to the remains of an old castle which Pierre Cardin now owns and the area is used for large art pieces and yearly theatre show. Menerbes was next and we went for a wander here also past the house where Picasso’s mistress lived. This area is also known for truffle collecting in March but yield last year was 17 tonne compared to 1500 in 1950.…thus the term black diamonds. Lastly Oppede which is a deserted town now overgrown with trees and weeds but the church still remains at the top although in need of tlc. The book “A year in Provence” did wonders for reviving this area as small towns in France like Australia are being deserted, but with the Dutch and the English buying up the homes they are breathing life back into them. However this area is too dry and unappealing to me! Had another good value meal with a girl from Paris who was sharing my room and a man originally from Egypt. Now sharing with two unsociable young girls so I went to bed earlyish to avoid them.

Tuesday 18^th

I was up before the others again so I crept around showered and went off for breaky…..coffee or quick is served in a bowl, we also got yogurt, an apple and the usual bread and jam…fantastic especially when compared to what I was paying for my B&B at the hotel in Dijon. If you can cope with sharing a room this is certainly the way to travel. Sent a quick email home then off to catch a bus into town and another bus to Marseille. The bus stop was a fair walk from the tourist office and then I took an even longer detour along the harbour so in the hot sun I was a bit pooped….I asked for a cheap room and boy did I get it ….not in price but the place and the room was a dump! Turns out the rugby is on here and I knew the hostels were full. I guess the rates have been hiked up because of the rugby but also anywhere on the Mediterranean is more expensive. To make it worse I had to drag my big bag up three flights of stairs….oh well teach me for asking for cheap! I atleast have nice crisp sheets and white towels, a shower and a loo across the passage……and a view of tiles and chimney pots!!!! Changed into some cooler clothes and off to explore. After wandering the streets I decided to catch a little tourist train to take me up to the oldest part as it was a fair way and up hill. Then I walked around the other side of the harbour to visit the old fort and found a church built like a fort in the 11^th C. There happened to be a tenor, soprano and a pianist rehearsing for a concert so I sat and listed to some beautiful music for a while and then he played the Barcarole (for himself I think) to finish off. By now a very strong wind had blown up so when I returned to the tourist-restaurant area there were pot plants blown over and people busy packing up all the outside tables and chairs. I went back to my room to try and brush my hair and grab a cardigan before venturing back to the wharf area to find something fishy for dinner. Had a good meal of salad and stuffed squid at a reasonable price but decided to try the famous Bouillabaisse another day.

Wednesday 19^th

Decided to walk in a different direction to the top of a rocky outcrop on which is perched the fortified Notre Dame…..wow. With a golden virgin on top, a draw bridge and a view all around the valley in which Marseille sits and out around the docks and the Mediterranean coast. One wall was pock marked from the August 10-->25^th 1944 battle. Some of the dock area and the old city area were demolished during the war. This city was founded in 600BC by Greeks as a trading port. The national anthem also originated from here when in 1792 they marched on Paris in the revolution singing that song. Sat in this highly decorated church for awhile before heading off down the hill and up the other side to another monument. Went to find the railway station and get my bearings a bit more as I am still getting confused here. Although I had several breaks my head was booming so I decided to head back to my room and have an early night and catch up on this typing.

Thusday 20^th

Had to get out of this noisy dirty city so I caught a comfortable double-decker train to Cassis which is a little village not too far away. I discovered the train station was 4 km. away when I got there but the walk was pleasant. Past more olive trees and grape vines then down the hill into town. It is a gorgeous little place and I immediately wanted to stay there but the hotels were all booked out and after studying the booklet on flats to rent, it all got too hard so I just decided to make the most of this day. It is situated in a little valley with a horseshoe bay, a small stony beach and a marina with lots of little boats. Around the docks there were plenty of restaurants and plenty of tourists. The cliffs had pine trees so it reminded me a little of Pt Elliot. I spent the day moving from one spot to the next and soaking up the sun so it was very pleasant. Got back to Marseille around dark and made the long walk back to le dump and straight to sleep.

Friday 21^st

Spent the day wandering around again in other areas, through a market, through the old residential part of town again and back to sit by the dock. I needed a lie down as this place is too hectic with noisy sirens, police and assistant to victims vans, lots of dog shit to dodge and motor bikes buzzing around everywhere, so mid afternoon I went back to the motel for a rest. Went back to the same restaurant to have the bouillabaisse and paid plenty for it but it wasn’t what we know at all… there was a bowl of brown fish soup and a platter of various fish, prawns and mussels that had been cooked together so the idea was to pick this plate and put it into the soup… all in all I thought a pretty tasteless dish and I ate too much and felt very uncomfortable!!!!!

Saturday 22^nd

Didn’t unpack so I didn’t need to pack so I coloured my hair and off I went. I allowed an hour and a half to walk to the train but it only took half that time. There was a queue at the ticket/billet office and the first train was full any way so I had a nice coffee instead and then I only just got on the train in time! It was full but a nice train to go to Nice. I past Cassis again then towns including St Raphael and Cannes. On arrival in Nice I headed for the Auberge/ hostel but they were full except a dorm with guys so I decided against it and wandered off in search of a room. The first place I tried looked good but they were full so she phoned a couple of others and they were full. I tried one more then I found a sweet little place with a dorm set up as well as private rooms. Cheap and breakfast included. It has a little drive in come garden which is great to have somewhere to sit outside to organise myself each day. The room had a woman older than me from America on her way to reli’s in Italy and a young lad, both of whom left Sunday. I went off on my orientation walk by heading straight for the coast. whoa whoa whoa ……this place sure is nice for a place called Nice. The promenade stretches for miles, it is clean and bright and there are no god dammed sirens going all the time. I think I will stay here longer. I strolled along the promenade and sat and absorbed the sun and atmosphere for ages. There was a calm sea and no wind and it was magical and a couple of local Casanovas even tried to pick me up…!!! One wouldn’t go away so off I went and I decided to eat at a restaurant. I just had pasta but it was done in a style that reminded me of Australia so it was good. The French are so bogged down with their traditions elsewhere. By now it was 10.00 ..a late night for me.

Sunday 23^rd

The American lady was up early so I was also awake early and then I half dozed off again when the phone rang. I jumped up so as not to disturb my other room mate too much. A nice surprise ….it was Travis. He told me he is now unemployed as Paloga shut Meningie Transport down, and he is not sure what he wants to do but he sounded good and he has given up smoking…yippee. As he was with Ian, he also caught me up on a bit of news. While I was on the phone a girl from China came in and went straight to sleep as she had travelled overnight from Barcelona. Now that I was properly awake I got organised and went off on a big walk along the promenade again up and around the hill to find the dock and some serious big money boats along with some fishing boats and even saw a couple of Corsica ferries come in and out. After a few hours I turned back and went a different way which was a bit of a long cut! I passed some rather swish old mansions some of which now seem to have four or more letter boxes. I wandered around the narrow windy streets of the old town for a while but as I couldn’t find a loo so I went back to my place to freshen up and start again. There are so many restaurants/bars here and lots seem to be open extended hours.. not just lunch and dinner like elsewhere. I heard a few Aussies as I moved around. Most of the shops were closed as it is Sunday…but I am a bit over the shopping business now anyway! After more exploring the old town I wandered back in the direction of the closest coast spot to home to eat at a place on the beach. After a salad I sat on one of the deck lounges to watch the sun go down and the planes taking off and landing… one every three minutes, but no noise. It was incredibly peaceful and relaxing. The waves lapping on the pebbles instead of the sand. The only interruption was when the waiter had to shoo away a group of Russian ladies who had decided to half undress and go swimming in the area designated to the restaurant.

Monday 24^th

I hadn’t slept much so I was a bit slow starting the day…. Decided to do a little tour into the country so I booked that then went off for another walk around the streets. They picked me up at 1.45 and we headed north west over a river valley and up a hill to a little village and a little winery. They make wine in the old Roman way…ie. It sits in big glass jars out in the sun for 3 months then they put it in the casks for the varying amounts of time. They make all sorts including some sweet wines made from grapes that are left on the vine until mouldy and the weather has cooled right down. From here we went to a little hill top village called St Paul de Vence, but this one is now an artist’s town so it is well visited not only by tourists but by art buyers etc. It started with people like Picasso, Modigliani and Signac staying there. There were lots of working galleries and some great stuff to wizz past! Shared the mini bus with a German guy, a Melbourne couple, and a Quebec couple. Felt like an early night so I bought some salad and stuff and sat in the garden for dinner then went to bed to read. Room mates tonight were a girl and her brother from South Korea and Julia again who has worked in Queenstown for 3 snow seasons teaching skiing.

Tuesday 24^th

Happy birthday GCK !!!

Went off to the Chagall museum only to find it shut…I forgot Tuesdays they all seem to close. Wandered around a bit then went back to the hotel to be collected for another tour. This time a young German girl was our driver and I had a couple from India and a man from Finland as company. We didn’t go too far but visited the old money area of Villefranche, Beaulieu and Cap Ferrat. Bill Gates’ offsider, Madonna and Tina Turner are couple of names of local home owners. We went to the old Rothschild villa and gardens and the old replica of an ancient Greek villa built by Thoedore Reinach. Arriving back in Nice I walked the promenade again to kill a couple of hours then had pasta and clams for dinner. Julia is going home to Berlin tomorrow to organise a visa so she can get a job on a boat going to America. Had dinner at the same pasta place and enjoyed a huge bowl of linguine and clams while sitting next to a couple of old queens. Typically they first discussed buying new clothes but decided a new linen jacket requires too much maintenance, then Princess Grace and her family with the expected commentary on each member, then some chit chat on this and that!!!

Wednesday 25^th

Woke to a very dark overcast day and I took a bit long changing clothes and just missed the train I wanted so I had to kill and hour and half and go to Cannes instead. When I got off the train it was raining so after getting a bit wet and not seeing it ease off I bought an umbrella and wandered off to find the famous cinema. I climbed the red carpet in pouring rain and stayed there a while as it was bucketing down. Then when it eased off I found some celebrity handprints set in concrete..incl. Peter Fonda, Susan Sarandan, Catherine Zeta Jones and Guy Pearce! Then past the dock and into the narrow streets of the old town and up to the fortified old church and down again. Traversed the long main shopping street then cut through to the promenade which is long like Nice. I sat for a while in the sun which had come out then decided as it was mid afternoon to jump back on the train and go to Cagnes-sur-mer and visited Renoir’s last home. Quite a large property but again everything is very dry and the old house looked a bit cold and sad. However I guess that this is how it is here….ie Mediterranean with olive trees etc. and he did die in 1919 afterall! Couldn’t be bothered looking around the town so back to the train station and back to Nice. Bought some supermarket stuff for food as I preferred to eat in and relax. A couple of Japanese girls and a boy from Ireland in my room tonight.

Thursday 26^th

Have spent the day on the train and visiting another hilltop town, Tende and it was very cold and raining and there was snow on the mountain near by. However despite my feet being very cold as I had thongs on, it was quite a treat! Fairly untouched by tourism and the town was built on a steeper hillside than other towns I have been to and there were tunnel like passage ways connecting the different levels/ Came back a different way. Spent some time resting then as hungry….. out to eat! Attempted to use the restaurants wifi to catch up on all the tech stuff!! However although I was connected I couldn’t access any sites so I gave up and having eaten too much I was feeling a bit stuffed. However on returning to my room I found three handsome Spaniards so I felt somewhat better!!!!! They had only just arrived so were on there way out to eat. I was asleep before they returned.

Friday 27^th

Up and showered before the guys roused and went off without saying goodbye. Headed up the hill to the Matisse museum which was a bit ho hum but a pleasant walk and it was in the park area of some old Gaelic-Roman ruins and across the road a church with a monastery attached so I looked through this as well. Then back down the hill to the Marc Chagall museum which was too expensive to get in to but there was a good selection of work. Decided to revisit the dock and then up the bluff to view the city all round. It was rather windy but worth the climb. Wandered back through the old town’s alley ways and down the promenade for a walk and a sit and a walk and a sit in the wind !! On arriving back at my room I found a girl, Christy, from Toronto, a girl, also Christy, from Texas and Julia had returned. We shared some food and wine, and some chit chat, then I went to bed and they went out.

Saturday 28^th

Awoke to a lovely day but reluctantly it was time to move on so after breakfast with a girl, (Bulgarian by birth but who has lived in Spain and Paris), I went off to the train station which turned out to be very close, after my original wandering around to find a room! Bought a ticket to Menton which is not far away so a quick trip then headed for the cheap hotel I knew of but they were full so they redirected me to a not so cheap one but the tourist office indicated the cheap ones were all full and the hostel was too far up the hill. One street back from the promenade so off I went and kept going around the fort to the marina area and the view of the old town…as per the jigsaw puzzle. This is what brought me here and the place I had always wanted to go to. I sat for quite a while on the sea wall before heading up into the streets of the old town and up to the church, where there was a wedding and on to the cemetery. Down again and through the streets of little shops and restaurants (as usual). Ate in my room and as I had a TV, watched the BBC news and some other stuff before falling asleep.

Sunday 29^th

Back to Monaco which is only a couple of stops away. The station is subterranean so when I exited the big station tunnel via the ticket office, I was surprised to find myself way up above the water’s edge. Winding my way down I was fascinated to see how they have built the whole city hanging off the edge of the mountain. After reaching the water I then preceded to climb the steps and paths up to the palace. I happened to strike a special day when entrance fees are waived (as they were in Aix) so the queue to get into the palace was pretty long but I decided to stick with it. When I came out they were changing the guards but I couldn’t see very well so I gave it a miss and went into a little museum instead. Then wandered off down the hill again via a pleasant garden and the old town ( yes they are always on the hill ), went into the cathedral and was surprised to find that this is where the Grimaldis are buried. Continued on down to the dock where there was a cruise ship parked along with some big money boats and the usual array of little ones as well. The one named Moniekos ( money cos !?!) which was at Nice is now parked here. Walked along the grand prix street and up the hill around the other side of the bay and into the tunnel that the cars also go through. Around the bay then up to where the opera house, smart hotels and the Monte Carlo casino are. Well of course there were lots of tourists, but also some very ritzy vehicles…a soft top rolls, a few Ferraris, mercs of course, etc. parked around but I wonder if they were just put there for the tourists? From here I walked through some more gardens and back down the hill for a coffee and a rest. Having not bumped into royalty or any big shots I decided to go back to Menton. To get back up to the station I went a different way along a long marble tunnel then up escalators to emerge actually on the platform. Arriving back in Menton I decided to eat out so went straight off to find one. Sat next to a couple of English ladies so chatted to them a bit.

Monday 1^st

Slow start to the day as I was feeling tired so I decided to have a day by the water and so I started with a walk on the promenade in the direction of Roquebrune Cap Martin but it was pretty hot so I stopped for a rest then turned back. I thought as I was on the French Riviera I should atleast touch the water so I went back and put my bathers on and sat down on those stones by the water for a couple of hours. I broke my thongs though as I rolled down the stack towards the water! I had only just glued the sole back on one and given I had worn them nearly every day for couple of month I was a bit sad to lose them. I have found them the most comfortable for long walks so I went off to buy some replacements. All the shops now have winter stuff but I found one shop with some and an ideal pair. The evening was perfect so I sat by the water and had a drink before heading back to my room.

Tuesday 2^nd

Up and on the move again…caught the train to Manarola as Christy from Toronto suggested I should go to the Cinque Terra when we discussing our travels. It rang a bell and I remembered that G & J had been there and brought me home a calender. I passed town after town of hi-rise apartment buildings, which surprised me.They could give me no information as to what stops there were between Menton and where I was to get off nor what time I was due there…..so all the way I was looking at the vague map I had and then when I knew I was close all the station names. She had said it was the town before La Spezia but when the train went past La Spezia I knew I had missed the stop…..turns out it didn’t stop there so I had to catch two different trains back which added an extra couple of hours to my trip. When I got off the train I had to walk through a long tunnel to reach the little village where it was now dark, and the person I asked was not at all helpful as he said he didn’t know but pointed up the hill. So off I went dragging my bag up the hill until I found it. Luckily they had room and they were very friendly. I was sharing a room with Holly from Sydney/Auckland and a girl from Israel and two young ones from Germany. I spent some time looking at some travel books on Italy then went to bed.

Wednesday 3^rd.

Wandered down the hill past the little shops and restaurants towards the drop down to the water. What a gorgeous place. Set off up around the point in the direction of the main walk along the coastal cliffs. Manarola is the second town so I headed for 3,4 and 5. The start of the walk was fairly flat and a pleasant walk. I kept hearing lots of Australians, Kiwis, Yanks and Germanic voices. I only saw three Asian people all day (unlike Nice). When I reached the first town Corneglia after about an hour and a half, there was a set of 382 steps to climb but they were pretty easy. Had a little wander around and sat down for a rest as it was pretty hot. The next stretch to Vernazza was pretty hard..ie up and down and rough and it took nearly two hours, but when I arrived I was treated to the image that everyone knows, of the little bay and the typical scene of colourful houses stacked on top of each other up the hill, and a lovely atmosphere with lots of people having a break from their walk to eat lunch. There were a few guys playing some typical Italian music and a group of young boys playing in the water and as I was rather hot I settled for a rest for a good hour. The temperature was rising and the next leg was even harder with some very narrow tracks where everyone has to stop and let the oncoming people pass. All the way I passed dry stone walls terraced up the hillside where olives and grapes grow. Everyone had slowed down as the heat of the day was taking its toll on the walkers. As I grew closer to Monterosso I climbed down a lot of steps and then into a gully where it was cooler and a little more lush. This little town had a more open area and there was a funeral procession in place! It didn’t have quite the charm but it was pleasant. It was now 4.00 pm and I wasn’t about to walk back so I decided to catch the boat back. The next one left at 5.00 so by the time I had cooled down and had a look around it was time to go. The trip back didn’t take long and it was interesting to look up at the cliff where I had walked and see the villages from the sea. Feeling hot and smelly I had a shower then went and sat on the terrace and had a drink. I was joined by my two room mates and a well travelled woman from and island off the west coast of Canada who I had spoken to in the morning. So four lone travellers went on to share an evening together and a fair bit of wine. It was great to have this company and a fun evening. It was after eleven when we all went off to bed..but the young German girls came in giggling after that.

Thursday 4^th

Slept in a bit. I think it had rained a bit. As I was getting organised Holly asked which way I was going to walk so we decided to go together. We headed up the hill rather than along the coast. Well we climbed and climbed for about three hours along some fairly unused tracks overgrown with brambles and gauze, and were a bit confused a few times as to what direction to take. However after what felt like such a long time we reached the top. We had passed layer upon layer of terraces and old stone walls and huts that were now disused and overgrown. We passed pine trees and oak trees and lots of chestnuts. For a lot of the time we were walking on a carpet of fluffy chestnut balls and leaves. We were continually amazed to find terrace walls so high. As we got higher the vegetation changed with ferns and mosses. We were so glad to finally reach the top as it was a long hard climb. Our descent was quick and a lot easier as we followed narrow terraced gullies down to end up in the first town of CT ie. Reggi…. One section was fenced off against the wild boars but we didn’t see any. We sat for a while until climbing down all the very steep stairways to reach the water and street of shops. Finding something cool to drink we sat with our feet in the water for a couple of hours to recover as it had been a hard climb and our legs were a bit jelly like and I was feeling a tad light headed. Holly decided to head back as she was going on to Florence today and I went off to go a bit further. However my track was closed for repairs so I turned back for Manorola. This was a pleasant easy walk well paved as it had been specially constructed with areas even cut into the rock to allow a path to be built. I passed through an arched area that was covered in graffiti art as well as graffiti which was interesting. On arriving back in Manarola I climbed up to the cemetery then a little park area to look back at the town in a different light as the late afternoon sun shone on the buildings. The hostel is very pleasant with a terrace for sitting and eating outside and friendly staff, Riccardo and Edwardo, so that with cheap food and other facilities available makes for a pleasant stay.

Friday 5^th

Up early but dilly dallied a bit long so I tore down the hill (sort of) only to find the train was running late…whew! Someone helped drag my bag up onto the train as the Italian trains are all so much higher than the platforms. But after bruising my legs with my bag a few times I have learnt not to rush. I now know to look at the “departure board” to find out the details of the trip so I know the time of arrival and the preceding towns so that makes it easy.

When I arrived I headed for what I thought was a hostel only to find it an expensive hotel so I found someone with a “Lonely Planet” or one of those books and they looked up where the hostel was and the girl in the tourist office was helpful as to what bus to catch. As they were waiting to close up I got a bit flustered as it was pretty hot. However I found it to be the cheapest one so far and although there are no facilities it is in an old converted small monastery with the church still operating and quite georgous inside, with farmland around so it is fine. I thought I had the large room to myself but ended up sharing with three other girls but didn’t get to speak to them. I changed into cooler clothes then walked back towards town to visit the leaning tower of course. The tower is part of complex with a cathedral and baptism building, cemetery and other buildings all within the confines of the old city walls. It is a full on tourist hot spot of course so there are African peddlers flogging watches, belts, bags and beads long with all the little souvenir stalls. However the area is very pleasant and while you can go up the tower you have to pay and I couldn’t face the climb so I didn’t bother. After a sit on the lawn and a wander around I went off to see some more of Pisa but it didn’t turn me on much so after a while I went off to find a supermarket to get some food but couldn’t find one. I ended up buying from a little gourmet shop but then decided to sit down to eat any way even though it was early. Well it was the worst meal I have had. Fried rabbit and artichokes….and that was it with some dry bread. The staff were Malaysian Italians which was interesting! I headed back for an early night. Had my taste of overdramatic Italians today…and they go on and on…..first at breakfast the French got into trouble for asking for croissants instead of rolls, then on the train some Americans got into trouble for trying to board after the doors started to close and then on the bus a tow truck driver got into trouble for parking to near the bus stop…and they go on and on!!!!

Saturday 6^th

I decided to catch a train to a town I had passed through called Viareggio as it is a resort type place on the coast. I also planned to go to the next adjoining town to visit the home of Puccini where he wrote Madame Butterfly and a couple of other of his famous operas. However after the walk from the station through some markets and sitting on the beach I couldn’t be bothered. After relaxing for an hour or two, apart from the peddlers pestering me, I set off down the promenade to find the elusive loo. A long walk later I ended back where I started and had a coffee to gain access to a loo!! Next to the beach there are lots and lots of private-access type set ups with change rooms, lounge chairs refreshments etc. but the season has ended and most of them were closed up. However the public restaurants and snack places were mostly still open and doing OK. There were also a lot of swish shops but many were also closed. Train back to Pisa then bus with a girl from Coulandra, to the ostello and a quite night with the whole place to myself, as I think everyone else had gone out and the office was closed!! After another warm day it was now raining.

Sunday 7^th

Caught the same bus into town as the other residents and was way to early for my train so had a coffee. Down the steps and up the steps again…..I’m getting used to these with my heavy bag! Chatted with some English people while waiting for the train….they were heading for Siena so we were changing trains at the same stop. There happened to be a soccer match in Sienna so the train was overflowing with tourists and their cases and young loud lads….It was a tad uncomfortable but you had to laugh. When the train got to my stop, ie Certaldo, the driver wasn’t going any further and called the police. However as I was waiting for my lift the police arrived with their batons but decided not even to approach the train and then the train eventually went on its way. I felt a bit sorry for the sardines on board….one Kiwi was not amused! I couldn’t get anyone on the phone so I started to walk but when just about there my lift arrived. I am in the heart of Tuscany staying in an old monastery again but this one is bigger and used to produce oil, wine and??? And is privately owned. It is a weary traveller’s paradise with a homely atmosphere, a garden, kitchen, lounge and plenty of space and the sun is still shining…plus I have only met Australian girls here so far! I spent the afternoon in the garden and then went for a walk along the back roads past olive trees and grapevines to the old fortress part of town on top of the hill. There was a food and wine festival on but I couldn’t see that people were getting anything for their money so I just wandered around and rested in the sun against the ancient walls. I went in search of some food but the restaurants were all closed until 7 or 7.30 so I headed back to the guest house, just stopping for a glass of wine, a yummy pastry and an icecream on the way. The girls were sitting around the table chatting so I joined them for awhile to swap travel stories. Our sleep was disturbed by the resident dog so.. ….

Monday 8^th

I slept in until nearly ten! Breakfast was a self serve to whatever was around so again it was a great relaxed atmosphere. Feeling lazy and given the late hour I decided to do nothing much so I washed some whites then walked into town to do the rest at the laundry and buy some fruit etc. With longer arms I arrived back and decided to soak my feet which needed some tlc….then made a fruit salad and sat in the garden listening to some music and do some typing. The evening was great …as it turns out there are nine Aussie girls, McKay, Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Perth, and one Swedish boy and the kitchen is a shared set up so we had a little dinner party and it was great to again talk to people of a like mindset. I was probably the first to bed.

Tuesday 9^th

First up so I scored a hot shower and saw Alessandro for a bike. Unfortunately I had to contend with a busy road so it was a bit scary on the narrow roads. The circus happened to arrive in town at that moment so some big red trucks with a camel were some I had to pull over for. When possible I headed into a park and worked my way up the hill for a great view and then found a panoramic road which I followed down the hill and then onto another road but not so busy. This led me into a quieter area and I felt like I was in Tuscany with lots of hills, olives and grape vines. It was a pleasant ride apart from dropping the chain and getting covered in grease. I walked the bike up a steep hill to a castle which would be a nice place to visit for lunch. From here I went on past an oil and alcohol factory and then back onto the main road which was very scary so I had to keep stopping to let the trucks past. I tried to find a back road but kept finding dead ends into private properties. I came across a lady whose car was on its side in the ditch on the side of the road. She was OK and thanked me for stopping. Discovered the circus trucks and the tigers were resting on the grass and they were busy setting up. I stopped to buy some food so balanced my bags on the handle bars on the way back. Another fun night of shared food, wine and chatter. Then a couple of girls were watching the Ray Charles movie so I joined them and had a late night.

Wednesday 10^th

The two girls from Perth left early but I was next up. Dilly dallied around then we all jumped in the van and went off past another village to a lady’s house, for a cooking lesson. It was good fun but we really only did basic stuff, Bruschetta, then pasta with a tomato, basil, walnut and pesto sauce followed by tiramisu. She is writing a cook book and maybe will appear on David Letterman sometime! We stopped off in town on the way back for shopping and dropped Deanne off at the railway station. I spent the afternoon mapping out the next two weeks as I have been feeling a bit flustered regarding where to go next to fit in with Raelene. Another girl from Kentucky arrived today to break up the Aussie contingent. We sat around outside chatting before another night of shared food.