Bronzewings

Friday 7^th December

Oops mixed my dates up on the last posting.

I left Frazer at the office and went for another wander around town. We met up again later and walked back to Cowley Rd for dinner (noodles no this and no that), Amy joined us then on to Don’s place which he opens every Friday to anyone before 10pm. It has the most amazing murals painted all over the walls in fluorescent paint. It is mostly a garden scene but the top floor is more like being in an aquarium. I left after a couple of hours and walked home. I like the feel of Oxford…..on this crisp cold night I passed others as they too were going home or on to other places. While there are plenty of cars a lot of people ride bikes or walk.

Saturday 8th

Saturday morning we were up early, firstly at 5.30 as my phone clock was still on Greek time! Then again I roused at 7.30 when I should have got up but dosed back until 8.30 which is when we should have left. However we made it in to town in time to catch the bus. A special bus to take a group of us to London for the Climate Change March. Well it was cold, windy and raining and my brolly turned inside out a couple of times and then was of no use as the fabric separated from the frame. There were some groups of musicians and in particular some strong drummers who kept our spirits high and kept us moving. We passed the houses of parliament, Big Ben then along Whitehall to Trafalgar Square, along Pall Mall then up to Piccadilly Circus along Regent St and finally stopped at Grosvenor Square for speeches…..sounds like Monopoly doesn’t it! By this time my feet were soaked and numb, but it was fun. I’ve never been an activist before! Given that it was all about global warming and it was cold and raining it all seems a bit silly really. It was dark by the time we set off down Oxford St to go back to catch the bus on Park Lane next to Hyde Park. The bus was warm so I nodded off on the way back. We were able to get off on London Rd and walk home and as Frazer had collected a couple of friends they came with us back to the house. I made some thick vegy soup then went off to a warm bed.

Sunday 9th

Sunday after Frazer and the girls had gone I felt like a day at home so I spent the afternoon clearing out some junk and cleaning the kitchen.

Monday 10th

Monday after a slow start I went into town and joined a walking tour. We retraced some of the streets I had been on but he filled in some history. Past the spot where three Protestant bishops were burned at the stake for defying the Catholic Mary Tudor. We went into Oriel College with its quads, gorgeous old dining hall and chapel. Past the Bod. and the Radcliffe Camera with its 5 and a half million books! The first record date of Oxford is 912 but it is older than that and the university is over 800 years old. The walk lasted two hours so by then it was almost time to meet Frazer who had been asleep most of the day. We walked down to his friends place across the Thames. It was Jacobs birthday and his mother had prepared a raw meal for us…including a gloop cake styled into 26. She translates Hebrew stuff into English and his father is a history professor working in the USA. Another English house crowded with chaos. Are they all like this? After dinner we went to the local community centre to join a 5 rhythms dance session. I thoroughly enjoyed this. It was freestyle movement to varying rhythms starting from slow, building up to frantic then back down again to very slow with motivation and guidance from the DJ….so it was like a spiritual release for want of a better explanation. Walked back into town and met up with Frazer’s friend Kamran who drives a cab (a real English cab) We put the bike in the back and he dropped me home. Frazer went with him to keep him company for a while as he worked.

Tuesday 11^th

The weather has improved with the sun shining for a little while but it is even colder than before. However I am still slow to start each day but eventually I caught the bus into town and went to the Uni and Pitt Water Museum. Well what a wonderland these two places turned out to be. The first is a modern layout with dinosaurs, fossils and other things related to our evolution. The Pitt Water is a conglomeration of all sorts of things from around the world and displayed with the original hand written tags in old glass cabinets which are crowded into this huge high roofed room (high enough for an American Indian totem pole). The nicer side of Oxford is on the north so although it was getting dark I took a quick walk along a couple of the streets not far from the museum. It reminded me of North Adelaide a bit. Bought a few groceries and headed back for another raw food dinner party. Jane and Frazer were making things so I helped out but we only had two others and Jane’s husband Nigel show up. The food was a bit boring and I was glad when they all left!

Wednesday 12^th

Tried to phone Travis but couldn’t get him and then phoned Ian to say hallo. I thought I might join him in Thailand but he is going home on the 17^th and I am too slow to make up my mind. Frazer also seems to be needing some support at the moment as he is feeling frustrated that things aren’t happening for him. He went off to the office to do some neglected jobs after emptying out his car which he had collected with Kamrans help yesterday. I took some photos of it so I went to the office also so that he could use the photos to sell the car on the net. However I would hazard a guess that nothing will happen in a hurry! I then walked into town via the Botanic Gardens and then through Christ Church Meadow. This adjoins the Christ Church College so I then went for a tour through here. Parts of the Harry Potter films were made here and Alice in Wonderland was written for Alice Liddell the Dean of Christ Church’s daughter by Charles Dodgson alias Lewis Carroll a mathematics tutor at the college. Inspiration for this book was also found at the museums I visited yesterday. The place has some marvellous architectural features similar to Oriel and Exeter that I have already visited but on a grander scale. The chapel here is a cathedral! From here I cruised the shops for a while, bought a new umbrella and a hat for Frazer then feeling cold and hungry I ducked into a little pub called Old Tom and had a glass of red and bangers and mash with Yorkshire pudding!!! I then made my way to the Exeter College Chapel for a candlelight concert of music from around 1700 with a harpsichord, violin and a soprano. Arrived home just as another of Frazer’s raw food dinners was finishing.

Thursday 13^th

Puddled around again then went for a walk in the woods nearby. It was a bit muddy and the areas still in the shade still had a thick frost at 1.30pm! It was also a bit stark as the trees have all dropped their leaves of course. Jane called in again as she was getting a quote organised for ceiling insulation and she wanted to clean out the loft ready for it. Frazer helped her empty out some junk and put it in the spare room then we had to leave as we were due at Kamrans at 4.00 for a meal. Quite a few of the family were there, he has six brothers all with families, so there were little kids everywhere. The parents are from Pakistan and some of the wives are also. They had prepared several dishes for us and although vegetarian most had chile so that limited what Frazer would eat but I enjoyed it and they gave me some to take home. They played a joke on him at first and gave him a plate of tomatoes and grass as Kamran had been to one of Frazer’s raw food dinners. He dropped us home at about 8.00 and someone was waiting for Frazer. They started discussing the house so I went to bed. I can’t see this house thing working as Frazer is too easily distracted and won’t put time into getting things happening plus he is talking about going to Boston still. Meanwhile Jane keeps popping in and checking up on us so it is quite uncomfortable as she is such a vegan greeny I am too scared to turn anything on! I will have to leave soon and let Frazer sort it out himself. Atleast he isn’t living like homeless waif at the moment.

Friday 14^th

Stayed home all day today and did some washing and typing and reading. Jane dropped in and I was told to turn the heater off because the washing in the room caused too much humidity and besides it is only used for when really cold!!!

Saturday 15^th

Walked to the Magic Café on Magdelin St via a muddy walking track along a creek, through a golf course and a bike path to listen to a friend of Frazers, play guitar and sing with some piano accompaniment as well. He was very good. Kamran came later and then took me to town while Frazer rode. Together we did some shopping and socialising then went to Pizza Hut for dinner. I decided to go to the movies and as it was a long film it was after 11.00 before I got home.

Sunday 16^th

I cleaned out Frazer’s car ready for sale, read for a while. Went to Christ Church Cathedral at 6.00 for Evensong. The choir was all male ranging from young boys who were hardly tall enough to see their music to adults. They sang beautifully. However the priests asking forgiveness for us miserable sinners was a bit much. I went back to the centre to join Frazer’s laughter workshop and then we went for dinner at the Pink Giraffe which serves food similar to the Chinese veg. place on Port Rd. I caught the bus home and he went off on his bike.

Monday 17^th

Day at home except for a walk to the supermarket.

Tuesday 18^th

Left Frazer asleep and went to town to organise my trip home but their computers were down so I went for a wander around the shops again and did a tour of the bod. I went back later in the day to do the trip which took ages because what I wanted wasn’t straight forwards so my plans changed. When I finally left I went to the centre and spent some time on the web checking stuff then we were shouted out to dinner at the Kasbah by a friend that builds eco houses out of straw bales. Kamran and his friends showed up later and we jogged back into town, to keep warm, to his car then they dropped me home.

Wednesday 19^th

Woke up to a heavy frost , even the roof across the road was still white until late in the day. I am feeling rather agitated at the moment. As the cold weather does not inspire me to do anything so I am sleeping too long and doing nothing. Eventually I headed off to town to finalise my ticket home, then went for a walk to the bus station and train station for some timetables and maybe some inspiration to go somewhere for a couple of days. Then to the post office and back home. Made a salad for Frazer and after a chat had an early night.

Thursday 20^th

Bought a few things at the local supermarket and on return I realised I didn’t have my camera. Needless to say this upset me. I worked out the most likely place that it could be ie. Either Kamran’s car, the Kasbah or the centre so Frazer phoned Kamran and I went back to search for it. Unfortunately to no avail. Fortunately I only lost photos from the 12^th of around Oxford, including the woods, the concert, the Evensong, inside the Bod, Frazer’s friends and photos of the butcher shop in the covered market displaying a large boar, some deer, turkeys, pheasants, hares and other creatures hanging up….no feathers but the others still had their fur.

Friday 21^st

Still upset about my camera but decided to go for a walk along the Thames so I went into town and headed north on a path between Mill Stream and the Oxford Canal that runs between the railway line and Jericho. There were a lot of canal boats tied up and many were occupied. Bags of coal were on many roofs which they must use a lot of as one of the canals was frozen on top. Temperatures are around -1 at the moment. My feet and hands were rather cold and I walk with my jacket collar pulled up over my cheeks to try and keep warm. I left the canal and found myself entering a large flat open field called Port Meadow. I crossed over the grassy meadow to the Thames. There were a few other people out for walks, some kids and their dogs. Some ducks and swans swam in the icy water which I followed north for a while but given it was so cold and that the sun sets so early I backtracked then continued following the river back into town. The track came out at St Aldates where the police station is so I went in to report my camera. Phoned Frazer who had been home all day playing with the voice recognition on my computer, and arranged to meet him at the Pink Giraffe again for dinner.

Saturday 22^nd

Jane called in to collect an old Christmas tree to take to the op shop where she was also finalising a raffle. I waited with her and drew the raffle at 2.00 then she went home after dropping me near Gloucester Green where there was a market set up. I then spent some time in a big book shop looking for a gift for her and settled on a word game as the doors were closing. Met Frazer at the centre again and checked my emails with just one from Mum saying Trav was with Ian and she was leaving for her trip. Feeling a bit low I needed a walk so headed off in the rain towards home and Frazer went off somewhere.

Sunday 23^rd

Frazer had heard about another café he thought he would like to visit so he took off on his bike and given I thought it was probably too late I said I would walk. Turns out his friends weren’t there and nothing was happening so he met me and said that the area was worth visiting any way so I continued on the walk to Iffley then joined the Thames for a walk back to town. The fog was very heavy and my toes and fingers turned numb but the walk was great. Iffley now a suburb of Oxford had some lovely old buildings with thatched roofs and country charm with fields and woolly sheep. I had flashbacks of a Wuthering Heights, Jane Eyre nature!! I crossed over the old wooden weir/lock past a charming old hotel then the boat house where we were supposed to go. From time to time people emerged out of the mist and passed me by. Someone was even rowing. The majority of the walk was through meadows and the heavy mist blocked out any view of the town but the constant hum of traffic was present. Once back in town I headed for Starbucks and had a large gingerbread latte with cream on top, which thawed me out beautifully. Wandered back to the centre where Frazer was checking his emails and organising some couch surfing in Poland and Prague. Feeling hungry we went to a pub for a meal and listened to some nice jazz before walking home.

Monday 24^th

Geoff and his daughter were coming over for lunch so I went and bought some vegys and made some salads. They stayed all afternoon talking food and stuff and I was getting a bit sick of it then I had just done the dishes when Jane arrived and also wanted to chat. Frazer and I were both yawning but we had something else to eat and Frazer started on his issues again about what he wants to do and how I don’t support him and I won’t let him help me etc. so I went to bed feeling drained, but Kamran phoned and Frazer went out with him. I decided to skip the midnight mass concert I had planned to go to.

Waited up till 1.00am to phone Travis and Ian for Christmas. Unfortunately I found him still in Pattya, still asleep, groggy and keen to hang up and Trav was still asleep. Needless to say I didn’t sleep the rest of the night.

Tuesday 25^th

Slept most of the day as did Frazer then we got up and while he jogged I rode the bike towards north Oxford (the nicer area) through a park with squirrels. Visited the home of IofC here, to see Frazer’s friend John and Peter Riddle and his wife. We went back to Cowley Rd and I walked home and Frazer went off to party and to Birmingham with his packi mates!!!

Wednesday 26^th

Awoke feeling very agitated ,I guess the pending journey and the fact that I am going home is the cause. Cleaned the house did the washing etc. Frazer had friends over and it was after 2.00 when we went to bed as we watched a long film on the computer.

Thusday 27^th

Another non day. Went out for dinner with Kamran his cousin, Harriet and ?? I went home early. Frazer discovered we could access one of the neighbours wifi so he caught up on his emails and after returning home from his taxi run was still awake when my alarm went off.

Friday 28^{th and} Saturday 29th

Another restless night and I was awake before the alarm at 5.30. Caught the bus into town and then the one to Heathrow. Made good time ie. Only one hour so plenty of time to hang around waiting for my flight. Lost about 8 hours as we arrived in KL at 7.30am their time, but 12.30pm England time. Checked into the Pan Pacific and had a big bath to soak away the dreariness of having been living in a dead person’s home and the cold!! Eventually went to sleep.

Sunday 30^th

Up at 1.30am to catch my 4.00am plane. Two hours not necessary as they said as the gate wasn’t even open. Flight to KK was only 2.5 hours so arrived very early but my bag had been left in KL. I checked into the hotel and went for a walk. Had to get used to the smell and humidity of Asia again! Found the local’s market. Realised I didn’t have my credit card so I started panicking that I had dropped it. Phoned the hotel to see if they had it but they said no but as I was in a stew I went back and luckily they now had it!

Monday 31^st

Did a round of the shops including large shopping centres, streets of stalls and streets of chinese and general traders. Every second shop seemed to be a phone shop. The quality of other goods I looked at was pretty crappy. I still couldn’t find my model of camera so I bought a smaller cheaper version of an Olympus with similar functions so that I didn’t have to learn how to use it. Then I wandered off towards the foreshore and found sheds containing various market type stalls selling all sorts of things but mostly fresh food. Then another big shed crammed full of crappy souvenir stuff with every trader selling pretty much the same thing. (The same stuff is sold in Bali and Phuket and probably Queensland.) The next market was open air with lots of really fresh vegys and fish. There was also lots food stalls with large pots of oil and lots of frying going on. I bought some fried banana….a bag full for 1 ringit. Spent the evening dining on the balcony on the 11^th floor waiting for the new year to start but gave up at 10.30 and went to bed.

Tuesday 1^st

Spent the morning by the hotel pool relaxing then joined some pommy soldiers, two girls and two guys, who are based in Brunei, for a trip to the local zoo. A pretty ordinary zoo but a pleasant enough little outing.

Wednesday 2^nd

Decided to walk to the museum/art gallery/native village which was further than I thought but although quite hot and humid it was something to do. More time by the pool to cool off. The pool is half in the shade and the days are cloudy so I haven’t actually been in for a swim. Another crappy meal in the hotel and early to bed again.

Thusday 3^rd

Picked up at 7.30 for a trip and a couple of nights at Mt Kinabalu. A lad from Perth and a couple from Singapore were also with me. The trip was about two hours to the base past a pleasant area of KK then into the country side past shanty villages, gaily coloured homes as well as some old wooden ones. After registering we set off up the mountain at about 10.30 in the rain. There were lots of others going up as well so this helped detract from the terrain and the rain and I made it up in about seven hours arriving in time for an early dinner and early bed. Depending on the weather they allow six or seven hours. The food was good and the bunk was comfy.

Friday 4^th

The room got a little overheated and one of the others got up to turn it off at about 12.30 and woke me up so I didn’t really go back to sleep after that. So when others started moving around at 2.00am I was awake ready to go. My shoes and socks plus my jeans had dried out so that was a bonus. Grabbed a cup of coffee and off we went. Chris from Perth wasn’t well with a cold so he decided not to come. The climb was quite steep and then it turned into staircases which were almost like ladders. After this there was a rock face with ropes to pull myself up and along. This then flattened out a little and the terrain was a sloping rock face with little streams of water. I had also lost the Singapore couple by this stage and my guide had caught up to help me. We had to pass through another check point and register our name etc. for the final ascent. The going got pretty tough from here on and my fingers and toes were frozen. I was determined to make it to the summit but after a few stops trying to find the energy to go on I sat down and decided I couldn’t manage the last bit which although not very far it was very steep. So we turned around to go down just as the sun was coming up. I couldn’t believe the terrain over which we had passed and it was quite scary to think if I had slipped it could have been quite tragic! We were back down to the hut at 8.30am. after 6 hours climb. After breakfast and collecting my things we set off at about 9.30am to go down to the starting point. My right calf area had started to hurt soon after I started the descent from the peak and it got worse so the trip down was a very slow and painful one. I didn’t realise how many steps we had traversed on the way up nor how high and steep they were. The rocky paths were also way more uneven and difficult than I had noticed. The weather had cleared and it was now hot and sunny so I drank from the water tanks at each stop. Chris had woken from his extra sleep and passed us. The couple from Singapore were also very slow so of about a hundred people I was the last one off the mountain and they were only just ahead of me!!!! It was about 5.15pm which meant it took nearly eight hours instead of about five. Another little van took us to the national park headquarters (where we missed out on our little guided tour) and then on to our accommodation. We had our own rooms and it was quite OK. After a hot shower to ease my pains I joined the others for dinner which was tasty and more than I could eat. Straight to bed and sleep.

Saturday 5^th

I awoke early to the sound of a cock crowing and then later on other noises which turned out to be Chris, being sick. He knocked on my door at about 6.30 needing more toilet paper. He decided he needed a doctor so when the staff appeared at around 7.00 they organised a taxi for him. Our little van arrived at 9.30 to begin the day’s trip but we waited for him to get back but he decided to stay at the lodge to rest. Our trip was to Poring Springs for a hot spring spa which brought welcome comfort to our aches and pains albeit temporary. After lunch we collected our patient on the way back to KK. He was not due to fly out until 9.00pm so I suggested he sit around at the pool instead of hanging around at the airport for five hours so I kept him company until he left and he did seem be much better. I then skipped dinner and headed for an early night.

Sunday 6^th

Unfortunately I also fell victim to the bug and spent a sleepless night vomiting. Once my system was empty I was able to sleep. With an aching body, crippled legs, sore stomach and a headache I dragged myself up to join my afternoon trip. I sat next to our cheery little driver with instructions to stop if I had to! Luckily I didn’t. The little journey took us two hours into the country side heading the opposite way to yesterday, towards Brunei. After a boardwalk we were taken for a ride in a boat along an estuary in search of monkeys. The waterways were, as everywhere, dense with vegetation including mangroves, palms, pong pong trees etc. Saw some of the longnose monkeys we were looking for (but I saw them better at the zoo!). Anyway an experience! They dropped us off at a different boardwalk to wander back to huts as the sun was setting. Traditional Sabah food but for me just some thin soup, rice and melon. I was feeling a little better but not interested in food. Dozed off to sleep on the way back to KK.

Monday 7^th

After some breakfast I was collected and dropped off at the jetty to go over to Manukan Is. Only a quick trip and the day was sunnier than it has been so the clean sandy beach looked inviting. Unfortunately I didn’t like to leave my stuff on the beach for a swim so after a short paddle I went over to the other side where there was a cool breeze and thus more comfortable and sat on the rocks with my feet in the water and here I stayed for a few hours enjoying the solitude and the sun. At about 1.30pm I gathered my things and went for a walk to the other end of the island through the rainforest and my only company was a great big lizard that crossed my path!! I discovered there was accommodation which would have been nice for a couple of days. I caught the 2.30 boat back to the mainland then wandered around the streets again for a while. I decided to brave a buffet dinner as it had looked so inviting each night. Well I shouldn’t have bothered really as my appetite was still a bit off.

Tuesday 8^th

Emptied my system out again when I awoke! However I was being collected at 7.15am for another trip so I got myself together and off we went. Just a couple from Hong Kong in the van today. Headed off in the same direction as the river trip until we reached Beaufort where we caught a little train. Wow what a train! Very old, wooden, small, open windows only and a bun fight to get a seat. There were quite a few tourists doing the same trip but with different companies I guess. I swear the train had square wheels as well. We rattled along deep into the jungle where there are no roads, stopping at little outposts to drop off or pick up people, past little wooden homes and dense vegetation. After about an hour and a half we hopped off to leave our bags, change etc. and then back on again for another twenty minutes to the starting point of our rafting trip, this time I sat outside on the open carriage though. The trip took about an hour and a half and twice we rode the waves a little wild …the first time the little girl from Hong Kong was dumped…she looked horrified! The next time both of us and a couple of the guides also went over. We were the only boat to do this as I think the others played it a safer as they had more passengers. It was fun! Arriving back to where we had left our bags we changed and had a meal waiting for us. Local food again but for me only rice, tofu and shoots. As we were eating it started to bucket down with rain and it continued so all the way back to Beaufort on the train. There weren’t many seats available on the way back but I scored one amongst the locals, many of whom were dozing. The rain had caused a bit of a mudslide and brought a tree down, which the train had to push out the way. Back into our van and a trip back to KK in the dark making the trip nearly twelve hours.

Wednesday 9^th

Last day! Packed my wet clothes etc. then went off for a body scrub and massage which was wonderful. Started thinking that maybe I could set up a little rejuvenation resort at Meningie for short stay revival packages!! Of course there would need to be a lot of infrastructure improvements before that. Then back to the hotel to sit and kill time ready to fly out at 5.30. Still feeling unready to go home, but, well I am on my way now.

Thusday 11^{th October}

Quite a few left this morning and some of us slept in. Sarah let me use the cable to access the net on my computer so I caught up on this and checked emails etc. Then I went into town to buy some odds and ends then back to sit around relaxing in the garden. Allesandro was away and Sarah headed off to Cinque Terre for a couple of days so we, (Georgey, Evelyn and myself) had the place to ourselves until Daphne came home. I made a plate of nibbles to share and we sat outside in the garden waiting for the new arrivals, two Perth boys and one from Taiwan. The boys, Geoff and ?Rowan, had been for a long bike ride and arrived back sucking on carton wine. They were good fun so more eating, ,pasta again with dry bread, drinking and talking. The boy from Taiwan (via Milan) didn’t arrive until after 7.00 but just in time to join us. He got lost so a half hour walk from the train station became two! We watched some animated film but it didn’t do much for me but they were amused.

Friday 12^th

A slow start again. I decided to go to Sienna for the afternoon. I hitched a ride with the boys to the station. They went to Florence. It was about ¾ of an hour then a twenty minute walk to find the old area. The city has a medieval feel about it with bigger buildings and more of a big city feel about it than other old towns I had seen lately. A building with a rather tall tower, and a large open space like an amphitheatre, that sloped down to it, a rather grand church that you had to pay to go into so I didn’t and lots of shops as usual in th old buildings. I bought a piece of traditional expensive rich moist cake to take back for a treat. After going around in circles a bit and exploring lots of streets I lost my way back to the train but after a while I found the correct bus stop so I jumped on a bus instead of walking. By the time I got back to Certaldo it was dark..7.30 but I beat the guys back. They cooked tonight…pasta again! Some new people had arrived… a couple from Auckland and another girl from Melbourne. The boys were looking for more fun so a few of them went off in search of a bar. Apparently a local gave them a lift to another town and they didn’t get back until about 5.00am.

Saturday 13^th

Up early for a change said my goodbyes to those awake and Allesandro (owner) dropped me off at the train. (He is heading for Melbourne at the end of the season, ie 3^rd November.) This was the regional train to Florence where I changed to a fast train to Naples via Rome. It is a big station and I must look like a local or like I know what I am doing as while waiting I had three different people come up to me and ask about train times/platforms. Quite a pleasant trip in a full train. The station in Naples was a bit confusing but eventually found the way to the local train down to Sorrento. Police were active here looking after the tourists as pick pockets and pretend beggars are common. The train to Sorrento was one of a kind. A fairly basic rattly little train and the graffiti was prolific plus there were about forty stops to get there. I arrived late afternoon and found the hostel easily as it was signposted and not far from the station. The room had too many beds so it was tricky finding a spot for my bag. Company was a friendly couple from Sydney and a boy from NZ who I only saw briefly in the morning. I just left my bag and went to check out the town. Lots of tourists shops of course and narrow streets of course and a great bag shop where I spent quite a while, but resisted! Found some lovely spots to view the cliff face etc. Ate in the main square then back for what turned out to be a sleepless night. The traffic noise was loud and continuous and then at about 3.00 the noise from the bar next door seemed to get louder. I got up and went downstairs until about 5.00am when they finally closed up.

Sunday 14^th

Dragged myself out of bed and headed down to the marina to check out times etc. for the boat tomorrow. It was cool and windy and I wasn’t feeling very fit so after climbing back up the cliff I found a park and sat for a while to have some lunch and a rest. Phoned Ian for his birthday. Bought some ointment for the bite on my leg which has grown to the size of a saucer and is hot and itchy. I needed a loo stop so I went back to the hostel rather than look for one and decided to have a snooze. Went back to the shops and views again but it was cold and windy. Found somewhere to eat. It was busy so I thought it would be good. However I think my meal had been prepared earlier and just reheated!! Slept well that night despite a very ordinary day.

Monday 15^th

I was first up as I wanted to be down at the ferry at 8.30 for the 9.30 boat. The water was calm so within an hour we were at Capri. Following the hoards of day trippers I got my map and found the little bus to take me up to Anacapri. The bus was very full and the roads very narrow and the cliffs very steep so there were a few squeals and oohs and ahs as we made our way up. We did get stuck next to another bus coming down and although they inched their way past each other we still lost a little paint. All the vehicles have lost a little paint! Anacapri is so sweet with clean with windy narrow streets and freshly painted houses of interesting architecture with little touches to make it very attractive. The vegetation is quite lush so the bougainvillea, ivy, other climbing plants, lemon trees etc. make this a very pretty place…almost unreal! The information on the net was out of date so it was not a place offering budget accommodation but a hotel with new rooms. It was pleasant so I decided to stay anyway. I actually unpacked some of my bag and hung a few things up. The girl on the desk then mapped out some things to do so I went off for my first walk. It was a beautiful day so I caught the chair lift to the top of the mountain to view all around Capri and across to Sorrento and Naples. The ride was very pleasant as I passed over gardens and homes and then I sat in the sunshine and studied my maps and information to get my bearings. After descending I went for a long walk down hill to Point Carena where there is a lighthouse and an area to access the water so there were some people sunning themselves and a few swimming. I sat paddling my feet for a while then had a drink at a little bar and watched the sunset. It was pleasant and with the sounds of some lovely music it was very special. I didn’t fancy the long walk back up so I caught the bus. I had a very tasty meal, pasta of course, so I was feeling great.

Tuesday 16^th

I had planned to be up early but it is very quiet here so I slept in. I was planning to walk down to the famous blue grotto early but caught the bus hoping to beat the tourists. It was very expensive ie E9.00 and a tip for ten minutes!! The water is a beautiful blue though and the boatmen all sing so it was quite memorable!!!! I found a track to climb back up the hill but my map wasn’t very clear. However I found where I wanted to go eventually and wandering the back streets was interesting but very steep. My destination this time was one of Tiberius’ villas ie Damecuta. There wasn’t much left of it as it was covered in ash by Vesuvius back in 79AD and abandoned. As I sat resting a local gentleman arrived showing someone around and he stopped to talk as did some Norwegians. He suggested another walk so after calling back at the hotel and doing some washing I found some other paths and had a look at the view over Capri from a point past Axel Munthes villa, then took the suggested road/path to Point Belvedere for another dramatic view. I ate at the same place and had another good meal…a seafood risotto.

Wednesday 17^th

While I knew about the scala to Capri I decided to use the road. This was a dumb mistake as I should have known. It wasn’t much fun traversing this road with no footpaths and no room as per the bus ride! Oh well I made it down and looked around the swish shops of Capri (Prada, Valentino, Gucci, Armani etc.)…..but I didn’t go in any as I had on my Kmart clothes! I then proceeded to do another interesting loop towards and along the coast and back. Some fantastic hotels and scenes. All the houses and streets have ceramic name/number plaques and the architecture is quite romantic with domed or flat roofs, vine covered walkways, wrought iron gates of many designs, mostly white washed walls with pot-plants perched on top of the pillars and lush garden plants. From here I was going to walk down a steep winding set of steps to reach the other marina but it was closed due to falling rocks, so I went back to the major little round-about and took another set of steps…again, a beautiful little laneway. I paddled my feet from the pebbly beach then sat on a wall and soaked up the last of the sun’s rays. As the summer season has ended as soon as the sun goes the beachside places are shut (if they were open at all), so I took the bus back up to Capri and onto Anacapri for an ordinary meal at another place. I bumped into the old gentleman whom I had spoken to before and when I mentioned a particular building I had seen ie. Villa Malaparte he said he wanted to give me a poster of it. His home was on the way back to the hotel so I stopped off to get it and we exchanged phone numbers as he offered to show me around some more. He is an architect so his house was rather nice on the inside.

Thusday 18^th

Again I was a bit slow starting but I caught the little bus back down to Capri and walked down the steps to the Grande marina, where I had arrived on the ferry. I found a boat trip to go around the island. We stopped off at the blue grotto for the others to have a look and then proceeded on around. It was interesting to see where I had previously walked from a different perspective but unfortunately I couldn’t hear the commentary very well. On returning to the marina I sat by the private boats for a while then took the funicular back up to Capri and wound my way up another steep hill, past several other red faced people huffing and puffing, to Tiberius’ main villa Jovis. It was quite large and a lot of it still standing so I sat for a while and thought of people wandering around the premises back in 27 to 37 AD. It was from here that he decreed the fate of the empire, (what ever that means), and apparently if one of his ladies became pregnant he would push them off the cliff! Back down again to sit looking at the view over the bay and watch the day-trippers buzzing around, then back up the hill to eat and sleep.

Friday 19^th

Old Vincenzo called in to pick me up and show me some of his current jobs…ie. renovation, not building, as there are to be no new buildings. He also took me to a place with views overlooking the bay of Naples which is owned by people from the Cayman Is. who use it for holidays. It has three separate living areas but not very flash nor very big but he said it is worth E7 million!!?? I don’t think so. Back to the hotel to write this up and relax ready to move on tomorrow.

Saturday 20^th

Arose early for my usual breakfast ie. croissant and café, then up the hill to the bus stop for another crazy ride down the cliff face to the port and straight on to the ferry, then off at Sorrento again and straight on to the little bus up to the big bus for my ride along the Amalfi Coast…..everything perfectly timed! The trip along the coast was different than I remember but I guess we took some detours last time. Incredible views mixed with a narrow windy road along the cliff face of the coast. More aahs from other passengers as we tipped towards the long drop to the sea! Past lots of olive trees and terraces and other towns until we reached Amalfi where I had to change to another bus. Here a lot of school kids also got on so for a while the bus was full but I had a seat. The railway station at Salerno was nearby so that was easy as was getting my ticket to Brindisi. However things went a bit haywire from here as I had to catch a bus at 2.00 which would have only been a half hour wait, to make my connection to the fast train but as there were so many buses and I didn’t see the name I was looking for I missed it. I went back to change my ticket and as he charged me E7 for changing it I gave him a piece of my mind and told him some more info would have been helpful! This time I was to catch a regional train at 3.14 to catch the fast train but while waiting I saw a sign on a train on the other platform with my details just as it pulled out so I missed that one also. They announced the change of platform in Italian but not English so I didn’t twig what they were saying. Back I went again to change my ticket and this time I got a refund as now I was to catch a regional train to another regional train at Taranto which is cheaper. So after wasting more than three hours at the station with this I finally caught my train at 5.17. Well this trip went well but the second train was cold and it was now dark so no sight seeing. The conductor came along and told me to change to the other warmer carriage which was like an oven! Anyway all was fine and as it was nearly 10.30pm I asked a young girl if she knew where she was staying and as she was returning to the hostel she had previously stayed at I tagged along with her. We were picked up as well so it turned out OK. The place was good and there were only three females staying there. I had two glasses of bubbly red …but it turned out to be “Spumante” and I went off to bed off my face!

Sunday 21^st

Slept in and went downstairs to a welcoming large mug of coffee. The German girl had gone already and I met the third girl, Cathy, who was from near Boston. Well as it was raining outside we spent the day chatting and made ourselves some pasta. As it turned out her background was so similar to mine you wouldn’t believe it. She is only 44 but owns a transport business etc etc etc. She is travelling for similar reasons to myself…(ie to escape the crap!) Our long conversation led to tears as she is still grieving the loss of her husband her divorced her six years ago. The hostel owner returned in time to take me to the ticket office then on to the wharf just in time to catch the ferry to Patra. The ferry which I had been looking forward to with some trepidation was more than comfortable. I only bought a sitting up ticket but there were quite comfortable cabins available. There was a large lounge bar and cafeteria. The weather was fairly poor and for the first few hours it was rock and roll with thunder, lightening and rain and glasses smashed a couple of times in the bar. Once near the Greek coast it was smooth sailing. The movie about Ulysses was on so I watched that until nearly midnight which helped pass the time and quite appropriate given that we were heading towards Greece. The boat however was full of Bulgarians who had been working in Italy and were on there way home. They all got off at about 1.30am in Igoumenitsa so after that there were only a few of us in the sitting up area so I was able to spread out and get some good sleep.

Monday 22^nd

“Thus, by our standards fully equipped ,we left the clammy shores of England. France rain-washed and sorrowful, Switzerland like a Christmas cake, Italy exuberant, noisy, and smelly, were passed, leaving only confused memories. The tiny ship throbbed away from the heel of Italy out into the twilit sea, and as we slept in our stuffy cabins, somewhere in that tract of moon-polished water we passed the invisible dividing-line and entered the bright, looking-glass world of Greece.” Gerald Durrell

It was still raining lightly when I got off the ferry so by the time I reached the bus station my feet were soaked. However the modern comfortable bus was just about to leave and there was plenty of room and there was a heater at my feet so I dried my shoes and socks off by the time I reached Athens. We followed the sea along on one side to Corinth and then the other to Athens, past the burnt hills from earlier bushfires, candle pines, olive trees and typical austere Greek houses. Found the local bus to take me to the centre of town. I had no map as there were none available at the bus station so I got off a bit early but went into a hotel and the price was OK so that was easy! They had a map so I was now able to get my bearings. Had a shower and a short rest then went off exploring. I bought some cheap fruit, dried figs and Turkish delight at the market. Found my way to Omonia square then on to plaka, had a very tasty yiros bought in Sindagma square for my dinner, then caught the metro back to the hotel as light rain had started again.

Tuesday 23^rd

Awoke early but went back to sleep then I couldn’t get myself going. It was also raining again so it was lunch time before I ventured out. I headed off in a slightly different direction and wound my way back to the Plaka on different streets. The tourist office was useless but they gave me a better map and walking along the street there were some brochures outside a tourist agent so I took one to help decide what to do. Wandered around lots of streets finding ancient archaeology including Hadrian’s Arch and temple of the Olympian Zeus, plus old Byzantine churches. I had dinner at a cheap little restaurant around the corner with a Balkan flavour so that was interesting!!

Wed. 24^th

Off to a slow start then I walked down to the railway station to get some details incase Raelene wanted to go by train to Salonika. Decided to go to the subway to make sure I knew where I was going to get to the airport on time. Sat and watched the waves of people come and go with each train until it was time to get mine. It is a very efficient service in a clean comfortable environment. The two planes coming that Raelene could have been on were both late. I swapped between the one from Paris and the one from London and when I couldn’t find her I sent her a text. I had missed her and she was outside. We headed back to the hotel then went off exploring in a similar direction as I has seen before. We saw the unkempt ordinary side of central Athens before entering the old touristy area. Raelene was fascinated with the number of shops and their displays. We found a great place for dinner and so after a (trad. Greek) meal and a good chat we headed back to the hotel via the main shopping street, Ermou where the Africans had their handbags, belts, etc spread on the pavement hoping for a sale!

Thursday 25^th

We headed off to explore ancient Greece via the back streets. Raelene was fascinated with the market area where all sorts of things are sold and displayed in what to us seems a chaotic fashion. After buying some sweets, nougat with almonds and sultana puree with walnuts we caught the little tourist train up to the Acropolis to save our feet. There is a lot of ongoing restoration work but the area kept us interested for quite a while. Catching the train down again we went on a good orientation trip of the central area and saw more than what we would have if on foot….past the parliament, the Olympic stadium, lots of ancient areas as well as the shopping streets. We then explored the tourist shops and had an expensive coffee. Viewed some more ancient areas ie. Temple of Zeus. The day was soon gone and we headed back to the Omonia square to a restaurant I had passed before. Raelene wasn’t feeling very well and therefore not very hungry so struggled with what she ordered but I enjoyed my Naxos salad and stickless souvlaki.

Friday 26^th

I don’t think I slept at all so rather than wait for the alarm I arose at 6.00 to shower and be ready to head off to catch the local bus to the regional bus station. All went well and the coach was comfortable so in between naps it was an enjoyable trip. However Marcia and Paul were waiting at the other stop for us, so had to get back in the car and go a bit further to find us. Our big cases filled the hatchback but we got them in and made our way through the traffic to their place. Paul stopped and bought yiros as none of us had eaten. After eating and checking out their home we headed off to Pefkohori. It is a good road so the trip was quick and easy. After a guided tour of the hotel, which is bigger, 92 rooms, and more equipped than I imagined, we went for a walk to the beach and back, past the marina and all the rubbish in the bushes and water that people leave behind, which no one cleans up…..then a quiet night chatting and reminiscing.

Saturday 27^th

Marcia took us for a long drive around the bottom half of this leg so we got a good feel of the area. It is much more developed than I imagined as it has become a real holiday place in summer. The majority of buildings are holiday apartments and the infrastructure that goes with that…ie. Restaurants etc. However the season is over for the year so there are only the locals left. There are a lot of pine trees which make the area attractive and it is sad to see the areas that have been burnt out by the fire last year. We stopped off to visit Kiki who works in a government run medical centre. Paul then took us out to lunch at a nearby seafood restaurant where we all over-indulged.

Sunday 28^th

Put on a load of washing (yippee clean PJs) Went into Pefkohori to wander around while lunch was cooking, waited for the bride to show up at the church then around some more back roads exploring the region. The day was dull again but one could imagine the difference there would be with lots of people around, the shops open for trading and the sun shining.

Monday 29^th

A big day today. As we took a long drive up to Palehorian We past some lovely areas then stopped off to see Chrissy and her husband and on to the old house which is looking very sad. No one lives in the old buildings, only Heitha in the newish house at the back. I didn’t really recognise any of it but had a general sense of direction and places. We then went a bit further east to Stagira to see the memorial to Aristotle who was born there. Then off to Salonika after stopping off for tasty souvlaki etc on the way. After a rest Paul took us for a night tour of the city, up to the old walls, down around the city and past some of his properties. Arrived home to find a beautiful basket of flowers from Mum!!!! More chatting and we were ready for bed!

Tuesday 30^th

Phoned Mother for a chat. She sounded well and it was good to have a four way conversation. We caught the bus in to town and started our sightseeing at the archaeological museum where we stayed too long and got headaches, From here we wandered the streets past places of interest and along the promenade. Went through the market area where Raelene was overwhelmed by all the fish, poultry, goats etc on open display. We were going to walk back but feeling a bit weary we opted for the bus. Paul had bought pork chops for dinner.

Wed 31^st

We all had a different handset and sang happy birthday to Byron who must have been a bit surprised given that none of us usually do birthdays! Sat around a bit then took Raelene to the airport. We were early so we sat with her until she boarded then headed back to Pefkohori, stopping for more seafood on the way.

Thusday 1^st November

Marcia and I went for a walk down to and then along the beach and back along the road and through the pines. The whole area is unfortunately littered with rubbish and apparently no one cares enough to fix the problem….environmental vandalism which should be fixed. I can imagine what the hotel guests and other tourists think when they go for a walk. Arrived back in time for a lunch of bean soup, then some time typing to pass the afternoon.

Friday 2^ndà Tuesday 6th

These days blended together with not much to say or do. I read a lot. I watched Marcia cook and clean and cook and clean and cook and clean and clean, just as she was doing 30 years ago. I have had trouble adjusting to the life style of getting up, eating, preparing lunch, eating, resting/sleeping, eating and watching TV….esp the CNNNN repetition of the news again, (as when I was at Rays), then sleeping again. My middle has expanded as the serves are rather large.  She is pretty fit as during Summer she spends a lot of time doing laps of the pool.

We have been for another walk along the beach and through the reserve (come rubbish dump) near the hotel as well as some more drives and visits to town. Paul went for his monthly blood test… He takes a lot of pills three times a day and has to check his sugar levels and I guess other things connected with his heart. Marcia also takes pills. as does Raelene, to stave off osteoporosis. They also all seem to worry about their cholesterol, blood pressure and ??? levels. Penny Penny the sky is falling.

Wednesday 7^thà Thusday 22nd

Cleaned and packed up ready to return to Thessaloniki yesterday but Marcia still had to do the floors again today! Waited for Paul to return from the Doctor. In Greece they don’t make appointments you just show up and wait, although in Salonika if you go the day before you can put your name on an unofficial list on the wall next to a time slot.

There is a good road between this leg of Halkidiki and Salonika so the trip is only about an hour and a quarter.

Marcia took me to a couple of art gallery and museum and we went for some walks towards town and around all the streets where they live. There are so many little shops still …not like home! We have also been to a modern shopping centre with a large super market …(no “green” bags here). We have been to a meeting of the International Women’s Group where an American woman spoke of her life in Greece since about 1945. We also went bowling with a few of the women, English, Swedish and American , which was fun. So I feel I have got to know Thessaloniki more as well as their lifestyle.

She won’t let me help at all nor pay for anything so I am being very spoilt. Paul likes to visit the local open air markets and buys all the fruit and veg and fish and always buys more than is needed. He also likes to prepare the food and enjoys telling Marcia how to do it which drives her a bit mad! (I think that is why I am not allowed to help in case I do it the wrong way!) 
The more I see of Salonika the name concrete jungle is truly justified and there is a monotonous sameness about it, plus nothing is finished off properly. However they have come a long way since I was here last and it is not quite the backward country it was. There is no shit floating in the water next to the promenade now! People still smoke anywhere and drop their butts everywhere though! Having read a little background of what Greece, esp. northern Greece has been through since WWII and the civil war that followed, I understand why they had been left behind! The country was devastated, with roads and homes destroyed, thousands kidnapped and taken off to become good communists and many more were homeless. There was no money and no infrastructure. Then they were governed by a dictator for a while so nothing progressed then either. Now as part of the EU the rest of Europe is pumping some money in to fix some things. The people still appear to be burdened with some quaint traditions and religious beliefs and practises. You have to put toilet paper in a bin and not in the toilet ..needless to say they miss the bin!

Meanwhile I am trying to write a small concise overview of the State of the Mind…so this helps me reflect a bit on my past, present and future. Have read one of Kon’s books, “The Way of the Wanderer” and a couple of novels.

Spoke to Ian and he said he is bored and eating supermarket dinners and as he is getting fat he says he has joined a gym!!

Thursday 22^nd And Friday 23rd

Set off at 7.00 pm (because Paul came with us) to catch the Scorpidos bus to Istanbul . Marcia and I didn’t want to sit around the office for an hour so we sat on a bench and did some people watching, to waste some time. We set off around 9.00 and headed east stopping several times along the way for loo/coffee stops and to collect some more people. Too many stops unfortunately meant too little sleep. When we got to the border at about 2.00am they decided to Xray the bus so we had to get off and collect our bags and wait outside in the cold of 2 degrees for probably half an hour. The road in Greece is new so most of the way it was smooth sailing but once in Turkey it felt like we were on a ship and some sections were still under construction so that slowed us down. As the sun rose we saw evidence of the recent heavy rains as we passed through the wide open green countryside. Unfortunately there was also heavy fog so the driver had to slow down and concentrate. Then before long the high-rise buildings started. What a surprise I had in store as I thought Turkey to be such a backward country but there is so many newish buildings of varying heights and colours. Many new housing developments where buildings are about fifteen stories, modern and often of different colours. While it is depressing to think how many people live like this at least the buildings have space, light and colour! It wasn’t clear where Istanbul actually started but it seemed to go on and on and given that the population is about twelve million that makes sense!

We finally arrived at the hotel at about 11.00am but as there was a boat trip organised only a few got off and the rest of us went down to the Bosphoros and had a pleasant trip along one side and back the other under two long bridges that look like the Golden Gate and past some waterfront homes and many other interesting old buildings. On the eastern side it is Asia and on the western side it is Europe…..making it a key city between east and west. The architecture is an eclectic mix of styles, from Venetian, Turkish Roccoco, old and very modern with lots of minarets jutting out into the skyline, which makes for an interesting looking city. Unfortunately my camera was in my bag under the bus. We also had a little bit of an orientation trip in the bus but with one way streets none of it sunk in as we went around in circles! After unpacking and some lunch we went for a short walk and found the main shopping street by accident. We organised our currency ie. New Turkish Lira which is almost the same as the $Aust. Later in the afternoon we boarded the bus for another little trip around and we were dropped at the Grand Bazaar ..yes that’s the covered one with about 3500 little shops. Lots of jewellery, some leather goods, souvenirs, clothes etc. I would have bought an interesting hat but he wanted way too much as I would have only paid about 5 or 10 lira for it so after that we decided not to look at anything too closely. Marcia saw a white leather jacket she liked and he said only 80 lira which I thought was pretty reasonable but she didn’t even try it on. They all have a similar approach to getting you to stop and look at their goods but at least they don’t harass you if you don’t.. Not wanting to stop and look at things because of their pressure we wandered around in circles up and down the passage ways but uninspired we went back early to wait for the bus. We had pomegranate juice while we were waiting. (Paul told us when we got home that the Greek government is giving grants to farmers to plant pomegranate trees so maybe this could be a new industry back in SA!) Back to the hotel and early to bed.

Saturday 24^th

After hearing the call to prayer and dosing back to sleep the reminder call rang at 7.00am. Dragged myself out of bed. Four star breakfast was on offer then into the bus and off to be a tourist. First stop was the the Dolmabahce Palace built for Sultan Abdulmecit 1^st around 1843.

Anyway back to this palace…..some serious quality here! The largest chandelier weighs 4.5 ton and has 664 bulbs! A large harem of course and 285 rooms. Lovely grounds as well but apparently only half the size they used to be.

From here we went to the Hagia Sophia the place of east meets west as it was a church for 916 years then a mosque for 481 years and now, since 1935, just a monumental museum in need of some TLC. Then we moved on to the Topkapi Palace which was the focal point of the Ottoman Empire between the 15^th and 19^th century where we wandered through the collection of buildings and saw some precious old things from this period. They then dropped us back at the bazaar to find our own way back to the hotel. We wandered around some streets and got the feel of Istanbul a little more. The sun starts to disappear early so by about 5.30 we were back down by the water near the Galata Bridge when the call to prayer started. It was magical moment to look back across and see the Suleymaniye Mosque and the New Mosque lit up with the glow of the setting sun. Under the bridge there are many restaurants so as we crossed they all tried to get us to stop and eat…it was fun. After looking at a fish market we found a tunnel which took us in the right direction but when we cam out…. well we had a map but we didn’t know where the hotel was. We took off in the wrong direction so it was a long way back instead of a short walk. Marcia wasn’t enjoying the walk but I enjoy the uncertainty and/or challenge. Eventually we found Taksim Square which we had been aiming for and discovered the hotel was in the opposite direction to where we thought!!!!! After going to the top of the Marmaras Hotel to look at the view as Maria suggested we found the main shopping street we had been in the day before near the hotel. This time however it was chock a block full of young people walking (rather rapidly) which created a vibrant atmosphere. Stopped at a lolly shop to buy some Turkish sweets then back for a quick rest and shower before going out again. Marcia turned on the TV as the BBC were informing us of Australia’s change of government. The power of the media controls the world once again, as it brainwashes the moronic public into ousting a successful government!! We went to a typical tourist place for a taste of the local culture!!!! Food was pretty ho hum as expected but we had some fun and the belly dancers and the display the men put on was quite entertaining. Unfortunately the night deteriorated into an audience participation session with the Greeks as the largest percentage of attention.

Sunday 25^th

Breakfast and on to the bus for a visit to a couple of old Greek Orthodox churches and some “miracles” and Marcia and I had a quick look around a few streets of the old Istanbul, then we headed off back to Greece past some remains of the old city walls from around 420AD. I could easily spend a lot more time here as there is so much we didn’t get to see. We didn’t even go to the most famous land mark the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque. One day maybe I will come back and see some more and some more of Turkey also. We had a pretty easy trip back apart from a slow stretch because of road works and arrived back at about 10.30pm and caught the bus home. Paul was still up so Marcia filled him in on our trip and there was plenty of laughter so that was great.

Monday and Tuesday 27^th

Both quiet days and as the days are short it is as though they didn’t really happen. I have been procrastinating as to where to go from here but I decided it would be via England. So when I spoke to Frazer today and he said he has a house I have somewhere to stay until my next move.

Wednesday 28^th

Visited Maria, Stellios wife, to see her new baby. Kiki was there, as she lives next door and was home for a few days. Offered mandarin/ouzo liqueur, then chocolates, then pastries, then coffee or coke !!!! After lunch Marcia helped Paul clean fish for his soup then we went to the Net place where I booked my flight to London. The days are very short at the moment and it was getting dark as we walked back home. Watched one of Kon’s videos “Powaqqats” which has beautiful imagery and music. He has a wide range of books and Cds so I think he might be a very interesting person. If he continues to pursue his interests and can travel some more, he should have a good life.

Thusday 29^thà Sunday 1^st December

Some more down days! Watched Greek MTV this afternoon… some lovely songs but only a few that didn’t have that same old smooth cheesy sound. Sent a box of maps etc home to lighten my load a little. Marcia confided a little more with me how difficult life has been for her here and told of some of her health issues, like loss of balance and going temporarily blind a couple of times!! Probably all stress related…according to Dr. Bron. Sunday …ah a lovely sunny day….we have had a few..so we decided to go for a walk along the promenade again. Had a weird experience before that though. I was eating lunch….fish and vegys when I suddenly felt rather full and a bit weird…. I thought it was because I had eaten too much again. Then I started sweating and feeling a little nauseous then a bit out of it (similar to when very drunk!) I excused my self and headed for the bathroom….well from both directions I exploded then I felt better. After a bit of a rest I was fine….weird!!! Now back to the walk…Paul walked all the way without tiring and having seen him shift a whole stack of olive tree prunings down at the motel… I think he is actually pretty fit. Shops are closed here on Sundays but as a lot of people live in the centre and/or close by, there are plenty of people out and about and drinking frappes at the coffee houses. Parked the car next to one of the big hotels and noticed a sign for a conference and people just leaving. Title: Brain and Behaviour…..probably would have suited Frazer.

Monday 3^rd

My last day in Greece. Packed up to Marcia’s surprise as she thought I was leaving Wednesday….probably because she was with me when I was messing around on the net finding flights. Anyway had lunch and off we went. After I received my boarding pass I happened to notice that the time on it was different to what the net showed. It wasn’t on the board either so Marcia went and looked elsewhere and said it was showing on another board so I went through passport control and noticed that only a BA flight was loading so I asked what was going on and was told that the schedule was different but I am not sure why. Some other people were hanging around as well so I guess they were in the same position as me. Anyway I had to sit and wait another hour….no big deal but it would mean getting into London in the dark. Left finally at 4.30 and arrived at Gatwick at 8.00 Greece time which is 6.00 UK time. By the time I got my bag etc. and the bus to Oxford came along it was 7.15 and arrived at Oxford after an easy trip at 8.45. Frazer was there to meet me and we walked back to his house. It is a fully furnished place (Jane’s fathers, who died about 6 months ago), and this is his first night here. Typical English place cluttered up with too much furniture and junk. Chatted for a while then off to bed.

Tuesday 7^th

Caught the bus into town and Frazer gave me an orientation tour…Oxford certainly is a place full of character with all the old university buildings etc. We had a quick lunch with Jane who owns the house then we did some shopping as he needed some new shoes, a jumper and some thermals plus a new bike pump as he had lost the one I bought in Montreaux. We then walked (quite a long way) to where he had left his bike then on to the Community centre where he has been spending a lot of his time. It is dark early…around 4.30 and as my toes had been rubbed a bit raw I caught the bus back while he rode. I was feeling pretty tired so I went to bed early and read.

Wednesday 8^th

A slow start as it was dark and rainy outside we didn’t set off until the middle of the day. I did some more sight seeing while Frazer went off to do some jobs. There was a sudden down pour but luckily I was next to the doorway of the Exeter college so I ducked in and I noticed a church on one side of the courtyard so I went in there and found someone playing the piano so that was a pleasant escape from the rain. Then I continued on around the back lanes looking at the lovely old buildings including the Bodleian Library….some are very ornate and the colleges, as I remembered, have all had famous people as students. I was the designated shopper but by the time I got to the open-air market they were packing up so I went to the supermarket instead to get vegys etc. for the raw food dinner party. Back to the house to make salads with the help of Jacob, Sarah and Frazer. We ended up with nine people so after a meditation and a demonstration of how to prepare Kale for another salad, we had a pleasant meal etc. Not too much philosophising or saving the world stuff !!

Thursday 9^th

Again a bit slow off the mark but when we got to town we met up with Tom for a drink. He has finally finished the book and it is in the last stage of editing etc. He would be free to work with Frazer now but that project has changed direction and now won’t happen unless Frazer does something on his own. Tom will be working on adding to his site with Frazer’s help. We then separated and I went into the Ashmoleum building to view the museum pieces - old scientific instruments. Met with Frazer again as it was getting dark then I caught a bus while he rode to his old digs. Here we cleaned out his room and reorganised the furniture for Richard, his friend, whom he has worked with as well so that Frazer’s room could now be used as an office. Richard from the look of the house, is one of these absent minded professor types, as well….Frazer is quite impressed with him and finds him an interesting person. His car has a flat battery so he will have to get a jump start and do that another day. I then caught a bus back to the Community centre for the Thursday night show and as it was raining by the time I got there my feet and the bottom of my jeans were soaked. A bit like the Rhino room with open mike. Frazer decided to do a little of his Mind Magician stuff. There was a wide variety of acts and some were very good and some quite funny. Decided to walk/jog home ….so to bed about midnight. Frazer rides his bike everywhere as nothing is that far really.

Friday 10^th

Awoke to blue skies but they were short lived and it is colder than yesterday. We are at the community centre as Frazer was keen to catch up on his “stuff” so I have brought my computer to do this.

To be continued……

Tuesday 4^th September-à Monday 10^th

Well another fairly uneventful week holiday wise, more cleaning (Mary’s new workshop), shifting a few tonne of firewood and gardening ( a new bed for some of Mary’s plants that she keeps buying) but Ray had another poopy on. One day you could have cut the air with a knife and so when we went shopping I decided to go off and get a selection of things to avoid the vibes. Another day when I suggested that I cook, as Mary spends a lot of time in the kitchen, he turned the gas off !!?? Then another day when looking at recipes on how to use up some of the eggs as the chooks are giving about 7 a day he started saying stupid things like he doesn’t eat soup and didn’t want this or that and not in his usual contrary way but in a nasty way so when the crap was directly fired at me I yelled back and then he said something like I was interfering with their lives. Needless to say that was the straw that broke this old camels back so off I went for a walk and a cry. After an hour or two I ventured back to go to bed.

The next day, Friday, I went off for another long walk and left a message that I would eat out, (as they had gone out). I walked for hours along the back roads all around Issy and then feeling tired I went into the old church and sat there for a couple of hours. I decided to eat at the local hotel which is owned by an English couple. I was the only one there! Had some salmon and French fries and some wine. By now it was about 8.30 so I decided I should return to base. Went in and straight up to my room.

Saturday, after some false friendliness and farewells, they left about 10.00 to go on a trip which I was originally to go on as well but I decided against it.

I had decided by now after not much sleep and a great deal of anguish to leave so I packed my bag, spent some time on the net, & looked up some train timetables to take me to the south of France. I was going to leave Sunday and leave Ray’s car at the railway station but I couldn’t bring myself to finalising things as I knew it was the end of all my plans. I dilly dallied around, made a collage of a photo of Ray that I had taken, wrote a long letter, which was in the vein of the celery story (Frazer will know what I mean by this).

Sunday I went into town to buy some bread for the goat and a few other things, but they had sold out, went to the bricante (junk sale) and bought some tulip bulbs. Back to do some more organising etc. and then I heard the car pull up so I couldn’t escape anonymously after all. That night Mary took me into the town as there was a tent set up and some food and wine was being sold to raise money for something. So that was pleasant and I took Ray back some nice meat to be nice. I decided I needed to offload some of my stuff as my bag was way too heavy, so I packed up a carton of papers, shoes and clothes to send back home….so I was dropping a hint.

Monday morning I told them I was going and asked for a lift to the PO and to the train station. Ray went out and Mary and I had a chat. While beating around the bush we smoothed things out so when Ray came back he hinted that I had done little things to annoy them…the only example he gave was that I had turned out the light one night!!

Now a week later I believe that while Ray was the nasty one it was provoked by Mary’s big chip on the shoulder. Remembering a few conversations, I now realise she thought I was having a go at her, when all I was ever doing was making conversation. eg. As they were still setting up their home she was hanging some pictures in a group and I commented that one should be a cm. lower, one was too close to the door frame and another one swapped because the colouring was wrong. She said later that she thought I was interfering when making suggestions regarding the arrangement. Then on the last day I temporarily hung the collage of Ray on the wall amongst this collection (and put hers in a shelf near by), thinking they wouldn’t notice it until some time later and get a surprise, but as it turned out she found it and thought I was interfering with her display and read paranoid meanings in to the collage. Then she pretended that it had fallen to pieces when she took it down!!!!

When they dropped me off there were hugs and kisses and “please come backs” but I was still feeling very offended and hurt…..

Now a week later, the sadness has gone and the anger is easing.

Monday 10^th

Cont…..

This is the day I left Issy l’Eveque and went to Dijon which is the capital of this region known at Bourgogne or as we say, Burgundy. Issy is part of this area in the south in a smaller area known as Saone et Loire…ie where the area of the Saone and the Loire rivers meet. I decided to find a hotel rather than share a room at the hostel so I have time to collect my thoughts etc. After checking in I went for a long walk around the old centre of town of course. There are many wonderful old buildings including the grand old homes with the high walls, hidden entrance courtyard and apparently a garden out the back. I sat for a while in the Italianate style garden near my hotel and the centre of town for a while then decided to skip dinner and have an early night.

Tuesday 11^th

I didn’t take my camera on my walk yesterday so I decide to retrace some of my steps and catch the little tourist bus around to see more of old Dijon. The museums were all closed but that’s too bad. Tried on some beautiful boots I had seen the day before but decided they weren’t as good as what they would have cost me!! While the French love their very pointy toe shoes, the trend in the shops at the moment is to kick the toe up a bit which looks very stylish! Had a big lunch today…plat de jour ..chicken in a light sauce with a big pile of mash …traditional. The French have their main meal at lunch time which is why a lot of businesses close for a couple of hours. Went for a walk down to the canal to get my bearings for my next couple of days as I had hired a bike to do some country trips. There is only so much one can take of charming old cities! Sat in the park again then went back to watch some French TV….after the usual news etc. I found a movie with Jack Nicholson, Dianne Keaton and Keanu Reeves but here they dub the foreign shows instead of using sub titles so that was interesting… but the story was easy to follow so it didn’t really matter …it was just a bit odd! I had bought a little plastic bottle of red .60c, so some of that which was really quite fine and some bread and banana was my dinner!

Wednesday 12^th

Set off at 9.00 on my bike towards the wine growing area south of Dijon. It took me awhile to get out of Dijon as I was a tad confused with the signposts and somehow got back on to the busy road so that was a bit hairy but then when I woke up to myself and checked my map I took the next turn right to get back on track. Well the first little village, Marsannay la-Cote, was quite charming and all the ones to follow on route to Beaune were as well. There weren’t too many hills so with all the variations of windy roads, lanes through the vineyards, the chateaus and the constant flow of vignerons it was a marvellous trip. Signs of vintage were everywhere with the special little vine straddling tractors buzzing around, vans of pickers, bins of grapes and lots of noise coming form the wineries. I did notice some piles of dumped grapes but I don’t know why they would pick them only to dump them. Come mid day I was keen to stop for a little lunch break so I bought some pig’s tongue terrine to have with my roll (from breakfast), a cold drink and an apple and sat just outside the village of Gevrey-Chambertin on one of the stone walls that surrounds the vineyards and soaked up the moment! The first vines apparently were planted here in 640. My lane ways ran out after Nuits St-Georges, except those too steep for me to face, so I had to swap to the other side of the main road but here along with more vineyards there was also open fields, some with sunflowers ready for harvest…..their big heads hanging low and others ploughed ready for the next crop of something. I scared a little deer which ran off through the remains of the stalks into the woods. The sun was shining and typical of here it gets hotter as the afternoon moves along so by the time I reached Beaune I had had enough. Unfortunately I only had a quick look at this wonderful touristy town with the usual narrow windy streets, and charm to boot, even with the very rough cobble stones. Loaded my bike on the train which only took 24 minutes to get me back to Dijon after I had spent 7 hours on my bike! A very early night followed.

Wednesday 13^th

Decided to ride along next to the Canal de Bourgogne to at least get the feel of what I was missing, now that my canal holiday will note eventuate. Arrived down at the port just as a boat was setting off in the same direction as me so I watched them go through the first lock to see how it all works. Then off down the track next to the canal in a dead straight line all the way to St Jean-de-Losne. The track varied from bitumen to rough gravel to a smooth rolled surface and often just dirt. I had to duck when passing the airport as a jet fighter came in to land. I rode over shiny brown chestnuts scattered in my path. I stopped to pick up some walnuts which were sweet and creamy, and a sour apple that I tossed away. The canal was a lovely shade of green and along some parts the algae had been collected and dumped on the side. I came across the little rake boat that does that and then later a truck that was collecting the refuse. On and on I rode but it was a bit tedious even though the vegetation changed, with lots of big trees planted along the edge, corn fields, espalier apple orchards and the little canal houses were every couple of km. I still hadn’t worked the gears out so I had to keep getting off at all the little rises where the bridges and locks were. Although I started to master this on the way back. I finally reached my destination and spoke to a Kiwi family who had just finished their canal holiday and were packing up to go home. Not looking forward to the ride back I spent over an hour here looking around and as this is an intersection of the canal and the river Saone there was a lot of boats tied up in the back water…..some for sale, some for hire and others just moored there I guess. The ride back was difficult as I wasn’t really enjoying it, my derriere was rather sore and it was getting hot again so I set myself some goals and went as fast as I could on the easy sections and I made good time back. I had partially been cured of my disappointment of not having my canal holiday!! Had a drink in a bar with Fosters on tap and signs everywhere thinking I might find an Aussie to talk to but I didn’t pursue it and didn’t hear any one. The drink however settled me down after a tiring day. Went back to change as I had decided to eat out and sample some famous Burgundian food. Well the escargot were tasty although small….the ones in the lane ways around Issy were twice the size, the Boeuf de Bourguignonnes was a bit beef de boring and the chocolate cake was well, OK. The little shops however are full of beautiful things eg the boulongerie - pastries, cakes and buns and the meat shops had gorgeous displays of little terrines..one I remember was a cone shape with smoked salmon and aspic on top.

Friday 14^th

At breakfast this morning I was looking at the daily local paper and what do I find…..an ad for the John Butler Trio…due in Dijon at the end of the month…so that was a surprise and I wonder how an Aussie band gets to sell tickets in the middle of France. I needed a rest day so I spent all morning in my room listening to some music, typing and copying across all my photos and saving them to disc as well, which I hopefully will give to Raelene to take home. Needing a walk I went to the railway station to get my ticket for tomorrow and pick up some time tables but the queue was too long so I gave up with the hope that tomorrow won’t be a problem, then back around town and visited the art museum, bought something to eat, sat in the park and back to the room to type some more and watch France’s version of Idol.

Saturday 15^th

I set the alarm as I wanted to catch the 8.20 to Aix en Provence. Arrived down at the station in nice time to buy my ticket and climb on board dragging my big bag up the steps. I once again passed the area where I had ridden my bike and saw the chateaus and vineyards in the distance but this time I knew what I was seeing. The train was a TGV but not as pleasant as the one from Paris to Le Creusot and when we reached Lyon it became a bit crowded and other people were juggling big bags. I had forgotton to validate my ticket, (which can mean you have to pay twice), so I pretended to be asleep when the conductor came along but next time round I didn’t see him….however he didn’t even say anything and just punched it a couple of extra times. The countryside became dryer and less interesting the further south we went…in Issy it is green all year round. I was scribbling notes in my note book and the man opposite had fallen asleep so I did a quick sketch of him… something I haven’t done for years! On arrival at my destination I realised that the station was way out of town….I should have caught the regional trains instead! I couldn’t see a bus stop so I caught a cab…but he dropped me at the door so that made it easier. I had to leave my bag and come back at 5.00 as some hostels won’t let you in the rooms during the day. I walked into town to get my bearings and have a wander around. My first impressions were disappointing as I had heard of this place way back and as I related it to Cezanne I had romantic ideas I suppose. However lots to look at and many streets to wander around. Feeling weary I headed back to the Auberge, ate and then went down looking for company. Turned out there were two girls from Melbourne so we had a long chat about our travels, teaching, etc. I shared my room with a girl from Canada on her way to Morocco, who left early in the morning, and a German girl who also left the next morning. Comfy room with our own bathroom but the traffic noise went all night I think.

Sunday 16^th

Breakfast was only on for an hour so I nearly missed it as I slept in. I ate with the two girls and another young Sydney couple who were on their way to Italy. Turns out there was a world rugby match here somewhere I think and Australia won! Wandered in to town again to retrace my steps and see what else I could find. I visited some museums and up the hill to Cezanne’s home and sat in his garden for a while. The shops were all shut except the restaurants and bakeries but there was a local fair displaying activities available in Aix and mixed in with this a bit of music and dancing…it helped kill time. Caught the bus back to the hotel again as I was feeling tired again.

The Australian girls Christy and Emma, I think, joined me for a meal cooked by an Italian born in Sydney and now living in Aix…..it was tasty and lots of it so a great value meal for a change.

Monday 17^th

Booked in as a tourist to do an afternoon trip so did some more time-killing... the Vaserely Institute is next to the hostel so went for a look but it was closed. There were about ten on the little mini bus…incl. some French, English, Poms, a yank and a teacher from Brisbane The driver gave a double commentary French/English. We went north west of Aix into the Provence country side, through very dry countryside with pine trees. Vines were the first predominant crop also growing in dry sandy soils unlike the loams of cote de Nuits. The main reason for the trip was to visit some little old villages perched on the tops of hills ( built there for protection in the old days) but when that was no longer necessary some moved down the hill. Rogues was the first one and it looked more Italian than French as they use the rounded tiles here not the flat slate like elsewhere, and there are a lot of dry stacked stone walls and houses and we saw some original homes called bories which are little round domed dwellings. Cadenet, Lourmarin, were next then Bonnieux, where we got out to look around and walk to the top of the hill to a church of course and down to the bottom to another church. Lacoste, was next but just went up to the remains of an old castle which Pierre Cardin now owns and the area is used for large art pieces and yearly theatre show. Menerbes was next and we went for a wander here also past the house where Picasso’s mistress lived. This area is also known for truffle collecting in March but yield last year was 17 tonne compared to 1500 in 1950.…thus the term black diamonds. Lastly Oppede which is a deserted town now overgrown with trees and weeds but the church still remains at the top although in need of tlc. The book “A year in Provence” did wonders for reviving this area as small towns in France like Australia are being deserted, but with the Dutch and the English buying up the homes they are breathing life back into them. However this area is too dry and unappealing to me! Had another good value meal with a girl from Paris who was sharing my room and a man originally from Egypt. Now sharing with two unsociable young girls so I went to bed earlyish to avoid them.

Tuesday 18^th

I was up before the others again so I crept around showered and went off for breaky…..coffee or quick is served in a bowl, we also got yogurt, an apple and the usual bread and jam…fantastic especially when compared to what I was paying for my B&B at the hotel in Dijon. If you can cope with sharing a room this is certainly the way to travel. Sent a quick email home then off to catch a bus into town and another bus to Marseille. The bus stop was a fair walk from the tourist office and then I took an even longer detour along the harbour so in the hot sun I was a bit pooped….I asked for a cheap room and boy did I get it ….not in price but the place and the room was a dump! Turns out the rugby is on here and I knew the hostels were full. I guess the rates have been hiked up because of the rugby but also anywhere on the Mediterranean is more expensive. To make it worse I had to drag my big bag up three flights of stairs….oh well teach me for asking for cheap! I atleast have nice crisp sheets and white towels, a shower and a loo across the passage……and a view of tiles and chimney pots!!!! Changed into some cooler clothes and off to explore. After wandering the streets I decided to catch a little tourist train to take me up to the oldest part as it was a fair way and up hill. Then I walked around the other side of the harbour to visit the old fort and found a church built like a fort in the 11^th C. There happened to be a tenor, soprano and a pianist rehearsing for a concert so I sat and listed to some beautiful music for a while and then he played the Barcarole (for himself I think) to finish off. By now a very strong wind had blown up so when I returned to the tourist-restaurant area there were pot plants blown over and people busy packing up all the outside tables and chairs. I went back to my room to try and brush my hair and grab a cardigan before venturing back to the wharf area to find something fishy for dinner. Had a good meal of salad and stuffed squid at a reasonable price but decided to try the famous Bouillabaisse another day.

Wednesday 19^th

Decided to walk in a different direction to the top of a rocky outcrop on which is perched the fortified Notre Dame…..wow. With a golden virgin on top, a draw bridge and a view all around the valley in which Marseille sits and out around the docks and the Mediterranean coast. One wall was pock marked from the August 10-->25^th 1944 battle. Some of the dock area and the old city area were demolished during the war. This city was founded in 600BC by Greeks as a trading port. The national anthem also originated from here when in 1792 they marched on Paris in the revolution singing that song. Sat in this highly decorated church for awhile before heading off down the hill and up the other side to another monument. Went to find the railway station and get my bearings a bit more as I am still getting confused here. Although I had several breaks my head was booming so I decided to head back to my room and have an early night and catch up on this typing.

Thusday 20^th

Had to get out of this noisy dirty city so I caught a comfortable double-decker train to Cassis which is a little village not too far away. I discovered the train station was 4 km. away when I got there but the walk was pleasant. Past more olive trees and grape vines then down the hill into town. It is a gorgeous little place and I immediately wanted to stay there but the hotels were all booked out and after studying the booklet on flats to rent, it all got too hard so I just decided to make the most of this day. It is situated in a little valley with a horseshoe bay, a small stony beach and a marina with lots of little boats. Around the docks there were plenty of restaurants and plenty of tourists. The cliffs had pine trees so it reminded me a little of Pt Elliot. I spent the day moving from one spot to the next and soaking up the sun so it was very pleasant. Got back to Marseille around dark and made the long walk back to le dump and straight to sleep.

Friday 21^st

Spent the day wandering around again in other areas, through a market, through the old residential part of town again and back to sit by the dock. I needed a lie down as this place is too hectic with noisy sirens, police and assistant to victims vans, lots of dog shit to dodge and motor bikes buzzing around everywhere, so mid afternoon I went back to the motel for a rest. Went back to the same restaurant to have the bouillabaisse and paid plenty for it but it wasn’t what we know at all… there was a bowl of brown fish soup and a platter of various fish, prawns and mussels that had been cooked together so the idea was to pick this plate and put it into the soup… all in all I thought a pretty tasteless dish and I ate too much and felt very uncomfortable!!!!!

Saturday 22^nd

Didn’t unpack so I didn’t need to pack so I coloured my hair and off I went. I allowed an hour and a half to walk to the train but it only took half that time. There was a queue at the ticket/billet office and the first train was full any way so I had a nice coffee instead and then I only just got on the train in time! It was full but a nice train to go to Nice. I past Cassis again then towns including St Raphael and Cannes. On arrival in Nice I headed for the Auberge/ hostel but they were full except a dorm with guys so I decided against it and wandered off in search of a room. The first place I tried looked good but they were full so she phoned a couple of others and they were full. I tried one more then I found a sweet little place with a dorm set up as well as private rooms. Cheap and breakfast included. It has a little drive in come garden which is great to have somewhere to sit outside to organise myself each day. The room had a woman older than me from America on her way to reli’s in Italy and a young lad, both of whom left Sunday. I went off on my orientation walk by heading straight for the coast. whoa whoa whoa ……this place sure is nice for a place called Nice. The promenade stretches for miles, it is clean and bright and there are no god dammed sirens going all the time. I think I will stay here longer. I strolled along the promenade and sat and absorbed the sun and atmosphere for ages. There was a calm sea and no wind and it was magical and a couple of local Casanovas even tried to pick me up…!!! One wouldn’t go away so off I went and I decided to eat at a restaurant. I just had pasta but it was done in a style that reminded me of Australia so it was good. The French are so bogged down with their traditions elsewhere. By now it was 10.00 ..a late night for me.

Sunday 23^rd

The American lady was up early so I was also awake early and then I half dozed off again when the phone rang. I jumped up so as not to disturb my other room mate too much. A nice surprise ….it was Travis. He told me he is now unemployed as Paloga shut Meningie Transport down, and he is not sure what he wants to do but he sounded good and he has given up smoking…yippee. As he was with Ian, he also caught me up on a bit of news. While I was on the phone a girl from China came in and went straight to sleep as she had travelled overnight from Barcelona. Now that I was properly awake I got organised and went off on a big walk along the promenade again up and around the hill to find the dock and some serious big money boats along with some fishing boats and even saw a couple of Corsica ferries come in and out. After a few hours I turned back and went a different way which was a bit of a long cut! I passed some rather swish old mansions some of which now seem to have four or more letter boxes. I wandered around the narrow windy streets of the old town for a while but as I couldn’t find a loo so I went back to my place to freshen up and start again. There are so many restaurants/bars here and lots seem to be open extended hours.. not just lunch and dinner like elsewhere. I heard a few Aussies as I moved around. Most of the shops were closed as it is Sunday…but I am a bit over the shopping business now anyway! After more exploring the old town I wandered back in the direction of the closest coast spot to home to eat at a place on the beach. After a salad I sat on one of the deck lounges to watch the sun go down and the planes taking off and landing… one every three minutes, but no noise. It was incredibly peaceful and relaxing. The waves lapping on the pebbles instead of the sand. The only interruption was when the waiter had to shoo away a group of Russian ladies who had decided to half undress and go swimming in the area designated to the restaurant.

Monday 24^th

I hadn’t slept much so I was a bit slow starting the day…. Decided to do a little tour into the country so I booked that then went off for another walk around the streets. They picked me up at 1.45 and we headed north west over a river valley and up a hill to a little village and a little winery. They make wine in the old Roman way…ie. It sits in big glass jars out in the sun for 3 months then they put it in the casks for the varying amounts of time. They make all sorts including some sweet wines made from grapes that are left on the vine until mouldy and the weather has cooled right down. From here we went to a little hill top village called St Paul de Vence, but this one is now an artist’s town so it is well visited not only by tourists but by art buyers etc. It started with people like Picasso, Modigliani and Signac staying there. There were lots of working galleries and some great stuff to wizz past! Shared the mini bus with a German guy, a Melbourne couple, and a Quebec couple. Felt like an early night so I bought some salad and stuff and sat in the garden for dinner then went to bed to read. Room mates tonight were a girl and her brother from South Korea and Julia again who has worked in Queenstown for 3 snow seasons teaching skiing.

Tuesday 24^th

Happy birthday GCK !!!

Went off to the Chagall museum only to find it shut…I forgot Tuesdays they all seem to close. Wandered around a bit then went back to the hotel to be collected for another tour. This time a young German girl was our driver and I had a couple from India and a man from Finland as company. We didn’t go too far but visited the old money area of Villefranche, Beaulieu and Cap Ferrat. Bill Gates’ offsider, Madonna and Tina Turner are couple of names of local home owners. We went to the old Rothschild villa and gardens and the old replica of an ancient Greek villa built by Thoedore Reinach. Arriving back in Nice I walked the promenade again to kill a couple of hours then had pasta and clams for dinner. Julia is going home to Berlin tomorrow to organise a visa so she can get a job on a boat going to America. Had dinner at the same pasta place and enjoyed a huge bowl of linguine and clams while sitting next to a couple of old queens. Typically they first discussed buying new clothes but decided a new linen jacket requires too much maintenance, then Princess Grace and her family with the expected commentary on each member, then some chit chat on this and that!!!

Wednesday 25^th

Woke to a very dark overcast day and I took a bit long changing clothes and just missed the train I wanted so I had to kill and hour and half and go to Cannes instead. When I got off the train it was raining so after getting a bit wet and not seeing it ease off I bought an umbrella and wandered off to find the famous cinema. I climbed the red carpet in pouring rain and stayed there a while as it was bucketing down. Then when it eased off I found some celebrity handprints set in concrete..incl. Peter Fonda, Susan Sarandan, Catherine Zeta Jones and Guy Pearce! Then past the dock and into the narrow streets of the old town and up to the fortified old church and down again. Traversed the long main shopping street then cut through to the promenade which is long like Nice. I sat for a while in the sun which had come out then decided as it was mid afternoon to jump back on the train and go to Cagnes-sur-mer and visited Renoir’s last home. Quite a large property but again everything is very dry and the old house looked a bit cold and sad. However I guess that this is how it is here….ie Mediterranean with olive trees etc. and he did die in 1919 afterall! Couldn’t be bothered looking around the town so back to the train station and back to Nice. Bought some supermarket stuff for food as I preferred to eat in and relax. A couple of Japanese girls and a boy from Ireland in my room tonight.

Thursday 26^th

Have spent the day on the train and visiting another hilltop town, Tende and it was very cold and raining and there was snow on the mountain near by. However despite my feet being very cold as I had thongs on, it was quite a treat! Fairly untouched by tourism and the town was built on a steeper hillside than other towns I have been to and there were tunnel like passage ways connecting the different levels/ Came back a different way. Spent some time resting then as hungry….. out to eat! Attempted to use the restaurants wifi to catch up on all the tech stuff!! However although I was connected I couldn’t access any sites so I gave up and having eaten too much I was feeling a bit stuffed. However on returning to my room I found three handsome Spaniards so I felt somewhat better!!!!! They had only just arrived so were on there way out to eat. I was asleep before they returned.

Friday 27^th

Up and showered before the guys roused and went off without saying goodbye. Headed up the hill to the Matisse museum which was a bit ho hum but a pleasant walk and it was in the park area of some old Gaelic-Roman ruins and across the road a church with a monastery attached so I looked through this as well. Then back down the hill to the Marc Chagall museum which was too expensive to get in to but there was a good selection of work. Decided to revisit the dock and then up the bluff to view the city all round. It was rather windy but worth the climb. Wandered back through the old town’s alley ways and down the promenade for a walk and a sit and a walk and a sit in the wind !! On arriving back at my room I found a girl, Christy, from Toronto, a girl, also Christy, from Texas and Julia had returned. We shared some food and wine, and some chit chat, then I went to bed and they went out.

Saturday 28^th

Awoke to a lovely day but reluctantly it was time to move on so after breakfast with a girl, (Bulgarian by birth but who has lived in Spain and Paris), I went off to the train station which turned out to be very close, after my original wandering around to find a room! Bought a ticket to Menton which is not far away so a quick trip then headed for the cheap hotel I knew of but they were full so they redirected me to a not so cheap one but the tourist office indicated the cheap ones were all full and the hostel was too far up the hill. One street back from the promenade so off I went and kept going around the fort to the marina area and the view of the old town…as per the jigsaw puzzle. This is what brought me here and the place I had always wanted to go to. I sat for quite a while on the sea wall before heading up into the streets of the old town and up to the church, where there was a wedding and on to the cemetery. Down again and through the streets of little shops and restaurants (as usual). Ate in my room and as I had a TV, watched the BBC news and some other stuff before falling asleep.

Sunday 29^th

Back to Monaco which is only a couple of stops away. The station is subterranean so when I exited the big station tunnel via the ticket office, I was surprised to find myself way up above the water’s edge. Winding my way down I was fascinated to see how they have built the whole city hanging off the edge of the mountain. After reaching the water I then preceded to climb the steps and paths up to the palace. I happened to strike a special day when entrance fees are waived (as they were in Aix) so the queue to get into the palace was pretty long but I decided to stick with it. When I came out they were changing the guards but I couldn’t see very well so I gave it a miss and went into a little museum instead. Then wandered off down the hill again via a pleasant garden and the old town ( yes they are always on the hill ), went into the cathedral and was surprised to find that this is where the Grimaldis are buried. Continued on down to the dock where there was a cruise ship parked along with some big money boats and the usual array of little ones as well. The one named Moniekos ( money cos !?!) which was at Nice is now parked here. Walked along the grand prix street and up the hill around the other side of the bay and into the tunnel that the cars also go through. Around the bay then up to where the opera house, smart hotels and the Monte Carlo casino are. Well of course there were lots of tourists, but also some very ritzy vehicles…a soft top rolls, a few Ferraris, mercs of course, etc. parked around but I wonder if they were just put there for the tourists? From here I walked through some more gardens and back down the hill for a coffee and a rest. Having not bumped into royalty or any big shots I decided to go back to Menton. To get back up to the station I went a different way along a long marble tunnel then up escalators to emerge actually on the platform. Arriving back in Menton I decided to eat out so went straight off to find one. Sat next to a couple of English ladies so chatted to them a bit.

Monday 1^st

Slow start to the day as I was feeling tired so I decided to have a day by the water and so I started with a walk on the promenade in the direction of Roquebrune Cap Martin but it was pretty hot so I stopped for a rest then turned back. I thought as I was on the French Riviera I should atleast touch the water so I went back and put my bathers on and sat down on those stones by the water for a couple of hours. I broke my thongs though as I rolled down the stack towards the water! I had only just glued the sole back on one and given I had worn them nearly every day for couple of month I was a bit sad to lose them. I have found them the most comfortable for long walks so I went off to buy some replacements. All the shops now have winter stuff but I found one shop with some and an ideal pair. The evening was perfect so I sat by the water and had a drink before heading back to my room.

Tuesday 2^nd

Up and on the move again…caught the train to Manarola as Christy from Toronto suggested I should go to the Cinque Terra when we discussing our travels. It rang a bell and I remembered that G & J had been there and brought me home a calender. I passed town after town of hi-rise apartment buildings, which surprised me.They could give me no information as to what stops there were between Menton and where I was to get off nor what time I was due there…..so all the way I was looking at the vague map I had and then when I knew I was close all the station names. She had said it was the town before La Spezia but when the train went past La Spezia I knew I had missed the stop…..turns out it didn’t stop there so I had to catch two different trains back which added an extra couple of hours to my trip. When I got off the train I had to walk through a long tunnel to reach the little village where it was now dark, and the person I asked was not at all helpful as he said he didn’t know but pointed up the hill. So off I went dragging my bag up the hill until I found it. Luckily they had room and they were very friendly. I was sharing a room with Holly from Sydney/Auckland and a girl from Israel and two young ones from Germany. I spent some time looking at some travel books on Italy then went to bed.

Wednesday 3^rd.

Wandered down the hill past the little shops and restaurants towards the drop down to the water. What a gorgeous place. Set off up around the point in the direction of the main walk along the coastal cliffs. Manarola is the second town so I headed for 3,4 and 5. The start of the walk was fairly flat and a pleasant walk. I kept hearing lots of Australians, Kiwis, Yanks and Germanic voices. I only saw three Asian people all day (unlike Nice). When I reached the first town Corneglia after about an hour and a half, there was a set of 382 steps to climb but they were pretty easy. Had a little wander around and sat down for a rest as it was pretty hot. The next stretch to Vernazza was pretty hard..ie up and down and rough and it took nearly two hours, but when I arrived I was treated to the image that everyone knows, of the little bay and the typical scene of colourful houses stacked on top of each other up the hill, and a lovely atmosphere with lots of people having a break from their walk to eat lunch. There were a few guys playing some typical Italian music and a group of young boys playing in the water and as I was rather hot I settled for a rest for a good hour. The temperature was rising and the next leg was even harder with some very narrow tracks where everyone has to stop and let the oncoming people pass. All the way I passed dry stone walls terraced up the hillside where olives and grapes grow. Everyone had slowed down as the heat of the day was taking its toll on the walkers. As I grew closer to Monterosso I climbed down a lot of steps and then into a gully where it was cooler and a little more lush. This little town had a more open area and there was a funeral procession in place! It didn’t have quite the charm but it was pleasant. It was now 4.00 pm and I wasn’t about to walk back so I decided to catch the boat back. The next one left at 5.00 so by the time I had cooled down and had a look around it was time to go. The trip back didn’t take long and it was interesting to look up at the cliff where I had walked and see the villages from the sea. Feeling hot and smelly I had a shower then went and sat on the terrace and had a drink. I was joined by my two room mates and a well travelled woman from and island off the west coast of Canada who I had spoken to in the morning. So four lone travellers went on to share an evening together and a fair bit of wine. It was great to have this company and a fun evening. It was after eleven when we all went off to bed..but the young German girls came in giggling after that.

Thursday 4^th

Slept in a bit. I think it had rained a bit. As I was getting organised Holly asked which way I was going to walk so we decided to go together. We headed up the hill rather than along the coast. Well we climbed and climbed for about three hours along some fairly unused tracks overgrown with brambles and gauze, and were a bit confused a few times as to what direction to take. However after what felt like such a long time we reached the top. We had passed layer upon layer of terraces and old stone walls and huts that were now disused and overgrown. We passed pine trees and oak trees and lots of chestnuts. For a lot of the time we were walking on a carpet of fluffy chestnut balls and leaves. We were continually amazed to find terrace walls so high. As we got higher the vegetation changed with ferns and mosses. We were so glad to finally reach the top as it was a long hard climb. Our descent was quick and a lot easier as we followed narrow terraced gullies down to end up in the first town of CT ie. Reggi…. One section was fenced off against the wild boars but we didn’t see any. We sat for a while until climbing down all the very steep stairways to reach the water and street of shops. Finding something cool to drink we sat with our feet in the water for a couple of hours to recover as it had been a hard climb and our legs were a bit jelly like and I was feeling a tad light headed. Holly decided to head back as she was going on to Florence today and I went off to go a bit further. However my track was closed for repairs so I turned back for Manorola. This was a pleasant easy walk well paved as it had been specially constructed with areas even cut into the rock to allow a path to be built. I passed through an arched area that was covered in graffiti art as well as graffiti which was interesting. On arriving back in Manarola I climbed up to the cemetery then a little park area to look back at the town in a different light as the late afternoon sun shone on the buildings. The hostel is very pleasant with a terrace for sitting and eating outside and friendly staff, Riccardo and Edwardo, so that with cheap food and other facilities available makes for a pleasant stay.

Friday 5^th

Up early but dilly dallied a bit long so I tore down the hill (sort of) only to find the train was running late…whew! Someone helped drag my bag up onto the train as the Italian trains are all so much higher than the platforms. But after bruising my legs with my bag a few times I have learnt not to rush. I now know to look at the “departure board” to find out the details of the trip so I know the time of arrival and the preceding towns so that makes it easy.

When I arrived I headed for what I thought was a hostel only to find it an expensive hotel so I found someone with a “Lonely Planet” or one of those books and they looked up where the hostel was and the girl in the tourist office was helpful as to what bus to catch. As they were waiting to close up I got a bit flustered as it was pretty hot. However I found it to be the cheapest one so far and although there are no facilities it is in an old converted small monastery with the church still operating and quite georgous inside, with farmland around so it is fine. I thought I had the large room to myself but ended up sharing with three other girls but didn’t get to speak to them. I changed into cooler clothes then walked back towards town to visit the leaning tower of course. The tower is part of complex with a cathedral and baptism building, cemetery and other buildings all within the confines of the old city walls. It is a full on tourist hot spot of course so there are African peddlers flogging watches, belts, bags and beads long with all the little souvenir stalls. However the area is very pleasant and while you can go up the tower you have to pay and I couldn’t face the climb so I didn’t bother. After a sit on the lawn and a wander around I went off to see some more of Pisa but it didn’t turn me on much so after a while I went off to find a supermarket to get some food but couldn’t find one. I ended up buying from a little gourmet shop but then decided to sit down to eat any way even though it was early. Well it was the worst meal I have had. Fried rabbit and artichokes….and that was it with some dry bread. The staff were Malaysian Italians which was interesting! I headed back for an early night. Had my taste of overdramatic Italians today…and they go on and on…..first at breakfast the French got into trouble for asking for croissants instead of rolls, then on the train some Americans got into trouble for trying to board after the doors started to close and then on the bus a tow truck driver got into trouble for parking to near the bus stop…and they go on and on!!!!

Saturday 6^th

I decided to catch a train to a town I had passed through called Viareggio as it is a resort type place on the coast. I also planned to go to the next adjoining town to visit the home of Puccini where he wrote Madame Butterfly and a couple of other of his famous operas. However after the walk from the station through some markets and sitting on the beach I couldn’t be bothered. After relaxing for an hour or two, apart from the peddlers pestering me, I set off down the promenade to find the elusive loo. A long walk later I ended back where I started and had a coffee to gain access to a loo!! Next to the beach there are lots and lots of private-access type set ups with change rooms, lounge chairs refreshments etc. but the season has ended and most of them were closed up. However the public restaurants and snack places were mostly still open and doing OK. There were also a lot of swish shops but many were also closed. Train back to Pisa then bus with a girl from Coulandra, to the ostello and a quite night with the whole place to myself, as I think everyone else had gone out and the office was closed!! After another warm day it was now raining.

Sunday 7^th

Caught the same bus into town as the other residents and was way to early for my train so had a coffee. Down the steps and up the steps again…..I’m getting used to these with my heavy bag! Chatted with some English people while waiting for the train….they were heading for Siena so we were changing trains at the same stop. There happened to be a soccer match in Sienna so the train was overflowing with tourists and their cases and young loud lads….It was a tad uncomfortable but you had to laugh. When the train got to my stop, ie Certaldo, the driver wasn’t going any further and called the police. However as I was waiting for my lift the police arrived with their batons but decided not even to approach the train and then the train eventually went on its way. I felt a bit sorry for the sardines on board….one Kiwi was not amused! I couldn’t get anyone on the phone so I started to walk but when just about there my lift arrived. I am in the heart of Tuscany staying in an old monastery again but this one is bigger and used to produce oil, wine and??? And is privately owned. It is a weary traveller’s paradise with a homely atmosphere, a garden, kitchen, lounge and plenty of space and the sun is still shining…plus I have only met Australian girls here so far! I spent the afternoon in the garden and then went for a walk along the back roads past olive trees and grapevines to the old fortress part of town on top of the hill. There was a food and wine festival on but I couldn’t see that people were getting anything for their money so I just wandered around and rested in the sun against the ancient walls. I went in search of some food but the restaurants were all closed until 7 or 7.30 so I headed back to the guest house, just stopping for a glass of wine, a yummy pastry and an icecream on the way. The girls were sitting around the table chatting so I joined them for awhile to swap travel stories. Our sleep was disturbed by the resident dog so.. ….

Monday 8^th

I slept in until nearly ten! Breakfast was a self serve to whatever was around so again it was a great relaxed atmosphere. Feeling lazy and given the late hour I decided to do nothing much so I washed some whites then walked into town to do the rest at the laundry and buy some fruit etc. With longer arms I arrived back and decided to soak my feet which needed some tlc….then made a fruit salad and sat in the garden listening to some music and do some typing. The evening was great …as it turns out there are nine Aussie girls, McKay, Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and Perth, and one Swedish boy and the kitchen is a shared set up so we had a little dinner party and it was great to again talk to people of a like mindset. I was probably the first to bed.

Tuesday 9^th

First up so I scored a hot shower and saw Alessandro for a bike. Unfortunately I had to contend with a busy road so it was a bit scary on the narrow roads. The circus happened to arrive in town at that moment so some big red trucks with a camel were some I had to pull over for. When possible I headed into a park and worked my way up the hill for a great view and then found a panoramic road which I followed down the hill and then onto another road but not so busy. This led me into a quieter area and I felt like I was in Tuscany with lots of hills, olives and grape vines. It was a pleasant ride apart from dropping the chain and getting covered in grease. I walked the bike up a steep hill to a castle which would be a nice place to visit for lunch. From here I went on past an oil and alcohol factory and then back onto the main road which was very scary so I had to keep stopping to let the trucks past. I tried to find a back road but kept finding dead ends into private properties. I came across a lady whose car was on its side in the ditch on the side of the road. She was OK and thanked me for stopping. Discovered the circus trucks and the tigers were resting on the grass and they were busy setting up. I stopped to buy some food so balanced my bags on the handle bars on the way back. Another fun night of shared food, wine and chatter. Then a couple of girls were watching the Ray Charles movie so I joined them and had a late night.

Wednesday 10^th

The two girls from Perth left early but I was next up. Dilly dallied around then we all jumped in the van and went off past another village to a lady’s house, for a cooking lesson. It was good fun but we really only did basic stuff, Bruschetta, then pasta with a tomato, basil, walnut and pesto sauce followed by tiramisu. She is writing a cook book and maybe will appear on David Letterman sometime! We stopped off in town on the way back for shopping and dropped Deanne off at the railway station. I spent the afternoon mapping out the next two weeks as I have been feeling a bit flustered regarding where to go next to fit in with Raelene. Another girl from Kentucky arrived today to break up the Aussie contingent. We sat around outside chatting before another night of shared food.

Decided to move on so off to the railway station without really having seen much of Chur which is one of the oldest cities in Switzerland. The next train to Speiz happened to be the Glacier Express and I had to pay an extra 30francs for a reservation!! I was a bit peeved when half of my carriage was empty so I think they ripped me off. Anyway another pleasant trip through valleys and up mountains once again. The rest of the people were having a meal but given that it seemed I had just had breakfast the smell was a bit “nauseating”. When I arrived in Speiz after what seemed a long trip, even thought the carriage was beautiful with panoramic windows so that I could see the mountains, I was told there was only one hotel so I decided to go on to Interlaken so jumped on another train. Well this place is the equivalent of Queenstown in NZ….ie the adventure city….extreme sports…etc. It is from here you can visit the Sphinx…(James Bond) or the Eiger (the Eiger Sanction) up via the Jungfrau. I checked into another backpackers, (which had a fun atmosphere but pretty rough and ready but no towel so I pinched one out of the cupboard when the cleaner opened it) and headed off to eat. I ended up sharing a table with a couple of German girls, one a nurse and the other a physiotherapist, who were working here. They were good company and we exchanged email addresses incase they ever come to Aust.

Wed 22^nd

Again couldn’t get myself going this morning and when I went outside it was cold and I couldn’t be bothered going back for my cardie so I was feeling poopy. Mum/Ian phoned so I listened to a scalding and blaa blaa about the court case then went back to my room to start the day again. Now a little more prepared I set off on a walk and decided to take a detour through the forest. However the map was a bit vague and I ended up climbing another mountain. It was quite steep and when I was expecting a path to decend it never showed and then when I found one it was closed….so I kept climbing…..eventually I reached the top thinking I would take the funicular down….however the place was closed and another hiker informed me that a landslide had taken out the train and everything was closed…..so I had to climb down again but on another route…unfortunately my knee started playing up again so it was a very slow long trip and so all up it took me over 5 hours. However while I rested at the top some hang gliders were hanging just near me so it was pleasant watching them hang there then catch a thermal and lift up and float away. On the way down as I zig zagged I passed under the train line several times and saw the damage and when I got to the bottom found the scrap heap of one of the little trains!!!…I hope no one died but I half suspect someone did. Wandered along the canal that joins the two lakes and watch the water rushing by…..there is so much clean water in Switzerland and it flows so fast…hopefully we have had lots more rain at home since I left……Changed and freshened up and went off to find somewhere to eat and then an early night.

Thursday 23^rd

Up early feeling much better so headed off to the station but having an hour to wait I caught up on some typing. I am off back down to Montreau on to Lusanne where I will catch a boat back across Lake Geneva to Geneva.

Well this was a lovely trip down on the train passing through my last signs of typical Swiss landscape and chalet type housing with flowers hanging from all the balconies and the sheds for the animals when it snows and the neat stacks of wood under there special little shelters. As I came down the mountain towards Montreux I could see in the distance the Caux Palace perched on the edge of another mountain and it reminded me of the pleasant start to a wonderful few weeks. Once again hugging the lake on one side and grapevines clinging to the cliffs on the other I came in to Lusanne where I hopped off and found the local bus down to the water. What a joy to be back at this lake. After studying the time table I worked out I could catch a boat at 2.00 to take me to Evian on the other side then after an hour and half catch another one to Yvoire and then straight on to another one to take me to Geneva. So that is what I did. Evian a pleasant little spot but given that I had my heavy pack and not wanting to climb the hills I took a little tourist train to view the town…..passing yes the Evian spring and the head office and along through the typical narrow little street now the tourist shopping mall. The boat trip was lovely and because I bought my ticket in Interlaken all the way through to Geneva I was able to zig zag across the lake and get on and off so I got more than my moneys worth and a few odd looks from the ticket collectors as this was out of the norm!!!! Arriving in Geneva I stopped to look at a map of the city to find my backpackers hostel and another chap was also looking so we went together. Well he was older than me and I had to almost run to keep up with him. He had walked from Germany (apart from the boat trip) and was actually on a pilgrimage to Santiago via France and Spain. He had a shell attached to his back pack with a cross drawn on it….so maybe you can find out about these pilgrims!!??

This time I didn’t get the dorm to myself…..there was a woman from Berlin (who had backpacked from Darwin to Brisbane with a truckie in her younger days, two girls from Spain who arrived late from Milan and the next night a girl from Brisbane via Germany snuck in late). However the facilities were very good as they cater for a few hundred, but again no towel so I bought a hand towel for 5 chf instead of paying 8chf to use one of theirs!…more stuff to carry! I couldn’t decide where to eat, even though there are so many restaurants, don’t scoff but I have realised that Australia could teach these Swiss something about food and service….so I had Maccas!!! but paid 12.10 for a burger, awful chips and a coke…..so perhaps the restaurant food isn’t so over priced after all.

Friday 24^th

After breakfast I headed off to visit the UN complex…..jumped on a local tram which was I had a free pass for then after finding the visitors area I had my photo taken and passport checked and issued a pass. There were about 20 in our little group including a couple of grizzly kids. The guide got a bit nervous and angry when a couple of chinese men disappeared and we didn’t all follow his instructions..but it was interesting and the name Kofi Annan came up a few times and I realised I should follow world politics a bit more to be more informed!!! Back to the centre of town again for a walk around the old town with the usual narrow windy streets but this time with bigger buildings. I have begun to wonder what the deal is with all these little shops because they don’t sell much….certainly not enough to make a living…perhaps they are rent free!? Passing through the red light district there were lots of restaurants and they were all setting up for a street party.

I was feeling a bit daggy so I decided to get my hair trimmed and coloured…..no English spoken but it all worked out fine! Down to the lake again and along the promenade for a rest as it had become quite warm and my feet needed a rest….so I sat for a while soaking up the balmy ambience…. Having wandered around late last night because I couldn’t find a bank or decide on a place to eat I decided to have an early night, so I ate at the hostel…pretty crappy food but it filled a spot. Used there email but 4 chf for 15 minutes ran out too quickly… hence chopped off mid sentence to Jeanie…and no chance to reply to others.

Saturday 25th

Still couldn’t get Ray on the phone…tried different combinations of his number with different codes in front and the Brisbane girl listened and said I was getting a message service which is what I thought so I must have the right number…anyway set off to catch a train and they sent me via Lyon and then Dijon with some time to wait in between so if I still can’t get him I will have to hitch hike I guess.

……..The trip to Lyon was fine but for the first time the train from Lyon to Dijon was crowded and unpleasant. Lyon to Le Cruesot was ok but just after I got off Ray phoned to say, could I get back on the train (knowing I had just got off and the train had gone) so that he could pick me up from Luzy which was closer, and then he said there was another train in half an hour so I went in to buy a ticket and the man said the next one wasn’t until 7.00 …it was now only just after 4.00 so I tried to phone Ray and Mary and of course couldn’t get either of them so I left a message thinking he would come and get me instead. However as I didn’t get a reply I was in a quandary as to what to do…>>I asked in the station then I asked a bus driver and a young girl but no-one could help me….I wasn’t sure where the road to Issy was either, as it is a larger town, and decided it was too hot and too far to hitch hike so I sat down and cried for a while. Time passed and so I decided to catch the 7.00 train to Luzy and hitch hike from there. There was a lady waiting for the train so I confirmed that it was the right train, as te office was now closed, and she chatted away to me in French so I nodded and pretended I understood a lot!! Once in Luzy, which is only a small village and I had been there before I knew where I was so I started to walk in the direction of Issy….the second car that came along was Ray! After listening to all the excuses about the phone and the clock….blaa blaa blaa, he dropped me off at the new place as they had rented the other one out and moved all my stuff over. He and Mary were at a dinner party and he was missing the aperitifs’ so I was a big nuisance. I got myself a drink then made a lovely omelette and sat outside to watch the sun go down. Given that I felt somewhat in the way I went to bed feeling pretty miserable as I didn’t know what I had done to upset them.

Sunday 26^th

Stayed in bed until late as I couldn’t face them and read my stuff from Caux to try and help me make a decision as to what to say. Decided to pretend nothing had happened as honest conversation was too hard. The day turned out OK.

Monday 27^th to Monday 3^rd September

A fairly uneventful week with some cleaning and gardening including picking plums and peaches from the little orchard and blackberries from the hedges. We stewed some, had some fresh and I made plum paste like the quince paste and it is very easy but I think I left it a bit long and it may be a bit rubbery but I have yet to cut it. Some tension is still in the air so I still feel like I shouldn’t be here and I wish I was still travelling around on my own. However there have been some pleasant times as well and it is nice to have a settled feeling and not have to decide what to do next. We have had dinner at Corries a couple of times and she is good fun and provides a five course meal….she reminds me of Sylvia a bit. The weather is pretty ordinary with a bit of sun lots of cloud and some rain…not summer weather at all. While away one of the chooks has become a mother of six baby chicks so it is fun watching them develop and I sit and talk to Giddy (the goat) a bit!!

Thursday 16^th cont.

Well I decided to go to Italy so I bought a ticket to Lugano which is on the border of Switzerland and Italy. A lovely trip followed. For an hour and a quarter I passed along the valley between the mountains where I had ridden my bike and as I progressed further along vegetable and crop farms turned in to vineyards, some on steep slopes. Towns we zoomed through included Bex, Martigny, Sion, Brig and then off at Domodossola to change trains. This next one happened to be a tourist train (smarter) and the trip although less than 60 km took just as long, as it was very steep and windy with bridges crossing from the side of one mountain to the next. Passing through many little villages we eventually descended down into Locano where I changed trains again for a little trip on a very modern fast train to Giubiasco where I changed again for a half hour trip down to Lugano. After getting my bearings I caught the funicolare down with a girl from Taiwan and her daughter who were going to the same hotel. We wound our way around the narrow little shopping streets and were soon at the hotel, the Zurigo. After dumping my stuff which I had discovered was somewhat heavier since leaving Caux (Montreau shops!) I went back to the windy little streets which is the old part of town of course to wander around. The language has changed from French to Italian of course but English is well known, unlike Montreau where it seemed to be French and Spanish? There is also no sign of the multitudes of middle eastern looking Muslims as in Montreau. I guess certain areas attract different types of holiday makers…..maybe package deals!!?? After acclimatising myself and a sit by the lake I went off to find food….(In the rain after arriving to a very summery afternoon). Stopped off and bought some Swiss chocolate on my way back to the room!!!

Friday 17^th

Awoke feeling a bit bloated as I had eaten way too much pasta the night before! Although I have been walking a lot the last few days I still am feeling a bit tubby after my 12 days in Caux where I seemed to be eating all the time. Anyway off for another walk past the shops and up the hill to a cathedral which was beautifully decorated …Renaissance period 1517. Then down a long staircase to another little church with a huge fresco done by a student of Leonardo da Vinci 1529. Then off to find the bus station for tomorrow and look around a bit more. However after the man in the ticket office at the railway station told me to go to the Information desk (as it was not his job) two stupid people had each circled the wrong street and then when I asked someone he pointed me in the wrong direction so feeling a bit hot and foot sore, I was a bit peeved to put it mildly. I gave up and went for a walk along the promenade instead and decided to catch the Swiss bus not the Italian one tomorrow to Menaggio. Feeling tired I decided I needed a siesta. When I awoke I decided to do this journal and I realise how much more I remember if I do it on the day or thereabouts instead of once a week like before…..so I aim to get to it each day! Salad and pasta for dinner again and across the square to watch an open air picture show. The first little film was about “what is the future of the cinema“. Made by Italians and interviewing various directors, producers and actors from Italy and Hollywood, with snippets or stills of old movies in between (including the famous bus scene from Pricilla). The next one was based in a small town on the border of Finland and Russia which I found a bit disjointed and slow but it was interesting in that in through in different languages to cater for everyone and given that Europe is such a mixed bag of languages I thought this a good idea as it was more inclusive rather than having it spoken all in one language and subtitles.

Saturday 18^th

Up to the train station on the little funicular as my bag is too heavy to climbe the hill enjoyably. I was very early for my bus but given the previous days hassle I wanted to make it easy. Eventually other people began to arrive and the bus was almost full with the majority going on to St Moritz. Wow what a ride this turned out to be as we were now running ten minutes late. This winding narrow little road hugged the mountain next to the lake and passed through several liitle villages and tunnels. As it was a full size bus (the post bus) the driver was continually blasting his horn to warn others he was coming around the corner and then when he couldn’t fit he had to stop to let the cars past or vice versa and often only an inch or two away from either a wall, a fence or a car. We arrived at Menaggio on time somehow. Off I got and wandered over to the ferry and I only had to wait about ten minutes. Given that it was 28 years ago that I was here I didn’t recognise anything but on arrival in Bellagio it was vaguely familiar. I asked at a couple of places if they had any room but as they were full I decided to ask the tourist office so she found me a room just opposite and I thought for a good price until I later realised my conversion was back to front!!!! Swiss francs are the same as our dollars but the Euro isn’t and I had forgotten it again. My room wasn’t ready so I left my bags and went for a wander up and down the narrow little stair wells/lanes. Checked back in to my room which I found was overlooking one of these and I had a little balcony which I spent some time relaxing on and watching the activity below. Off I went for another walk in order to find where we stayed years ago but to no avail but I did find the restaurant where we ate and Frazer slept under the table or on it! I pressed on up the hill and over the other side and came across another delightful little area with a bay of boats so I sat for a while absorbing it all. Just a snack for dinner and a stroll along the promenade followed with some time spent sitting on a bench.

Sunday 19^th

Up for a breakfast on the balcony overlooking Lake Como then off for another walk, this time the other way to the “point” where I found another pleasant spot and then I headed back where I went yesterday to take some photos but kept walking further and up and down a flight of about a 1000 steps to the top of the hill. Down to another bay and back through the grounds of one of the villas. I was back mid afternoon to spend some more time on my little balcony. I then had a nice bath and dressed for a dinner of more pasta and salad then a free concert, (strings only) that was being performed in the church. The pews were unbearably uncomfortable but it only lasted an hour and was most enjoyable. There was a soloist on the violin and the last section also had a clarinet solo.

Monday 20^th

Checked out of this overpriced tired old place with a hard bed and waited for the ferry back to Menaggio. Frazer phoned to say he was moving on tomorrow and probably going to Germany to catch up with the backpackers who have stayed with us in Eden Hills. It was drizzling rain and continued so for the rest of the day. I had an hour to kill so I wandered around but given that there was only one bus I didn’t want to miss it so I stood waiting in the drizzle. The bus was a good ten minutes late and I was starting to think I had got it wrong but then I heard the distinctive blast of the Claxton style air horn and around the corner came the big yellow bus …after the cars backed back out of his way. I thought yesterdays driver was amazing, well this fellow had to do the same thing as we followed Lake Como around but then he had to climb zig zag vertically up the mountains around corners much sharper than the old devils elbow. After an amazing trip sitting up the back of the bus which I had all to myself, and passing mountain lakes and towns, we arrived at St Moritz which is a huge resort town. I thought we passed through here last time and it was only a tiny village but my memory has faded. Given that it was cool and raining and I didn’t have a jacket or good shoes I decided not to stay so I caught the train down the mountain to Chur. Another beautiful trip in a modern train with big picture windows so that I could see the deep gorges that we passed over with the amazing bridges and then once down along a picture post card valley with orchards and crops. I decided to ask for a cheap hotel this time and she pointed me in the direction of a back packers. Well I received a welcome drink, a comfy bed and a good nights sleep. The rain had ceased so I went for a walk around the old town area and ate local style ie. ….now German Swiss, so I had sausage and grated potato….and the language has changed again of course.

Tuesday 21^st

Slept in until 8.45 so I am off to a slow start……

Friday we left Calombe to do the rooms and we went down to do some shopping. I wandered around killing time but when about to go through the checkout it was hinted I should buy some wine so off I went but then I was caught in a queue and got into trouble for holding up our return (so that Calombe could go home).

Aubyn returned home Saturday so on the last two days at the chateau after the jobs were done we took a few hours out. I spent another afternoon by the pool Saturday and on Sunday Mary took me for a quick trip across the mountains to…………and stopped at some villages along the way including Lemps where we discovered that the church inside had amazing acoustics and a beautiful floor. ..was full of day-trippers as it is in a lovely spot with a spectacular view across the valley and charming old buildings and the usual narrow winding streets. That night we had a family of five from Holland, two women from Bale who also own a chateau, and a girl from Paris, for dinner so Aubyn cooked for the eleven and we just helped set up and clean up afterwards. It was a fun night with plenty of wine and chatter.

Monday 30^th

Usual morning but I was in the way again! A quiet day so we went down to Tournon-sur-Rhone, just for a quick wander along the old streets. Diana returned that evening and we finished off the leftovers of my terrines and other meats and the meal from Sunday night and as we started late and had a few wines it was after 12.00 when we went to bed.

Tuesday 31^st

Up before 6.00 to finish packing etc. as I had decided to go to Switzerland to get out of the way! Mary took me down to the train which left from the other side of the river ie. Tain-l’Hermitage just before 8.00. I actually caught the wrong train but it didn’t matter too much so in Lyon I just caught another train to the other station and went on to Geneve where I changed again to get to Montreau. It was a pleasant easy trip passing initially through vineyards along the Rhone then though pretty mountainous areas. The trip from Geneva to Montreau followed the lake so it was rather gorgeous…a bit like the cockle train along the coast to Goolwa. I decided to spend some time by the lake in Montreau but as I was carrying my bag and pack I only wandered along the lake front a bit soaking up the beautiful ambience of the place. Feeling weary I went back to the station to catch the little cog train which passes through a few tunnels as it climbs up the side of the mountain to Caux.

Wow, wow, wow, the scenery back across Lake Geneva grew more spectacular as it climbed and then to top it off I saw my destination…the old Caux Palace Hotel which is now the home of Initiatives of Change who rent it out at other times to the Swiss Hotel Management School.

I found Frazer straight away as he was working in the computer room as he said he would be. We went to reception to check in but unfortunately I could not share his room as it was a men’s only corridor and they didn’t have any other rooms available. I was a tad cross with Frazer as he had told me I could stay in his room. We made a half hearted attempt to find another hotel but in the end I was too tired and cranky so I went to sleep in Frazer’s car.

Wednesday 1^st August

After a cold uncomfortable night Frazer woke me to take me further up the mountain to watch the sun rising over the mountains and the Lake. It was quiet beautiful. As we stood watching (with cold wet feet), a little truck pulled up carrying a little band who started playing the Swiss National anthem to wake everyone up, as it was Swiss National Day. Then a lady came in and invited them down to her house for refreshments. After changing into some fresh clothes we went in for breakfast where we sat with a fellow Aussie who offered me his room for the night. He snuck me in the back door and we swapped keys so that he could sleep in Frazer’s room. After a shower and freshening up I set off for a walk up the mountain again past the homes of the local community, while Frazer went off to a meeting. As it was a holiday the Swiss began to arrive to go for a hike in the mountains. I wasn’t up to a hike so I wandered back down again and went to explore the grounds of “Caux”. Although feeling like a fish out of water I went for lunch. That afternoon I joined a meeting to discuss teenage issues but found it unconstructive and a waste of time and just when I was dosing off to sleep I was asked for my comments! Oops, I had to think of something constructive to say quick…..blaa blaa blaa, ok that wasn’t too bad.

After dinner that night I everyone went outside to be greeted by threes Swiss gentlemen playing those great big long horns. Then an old bomb arrived decorated with flags and flowers to collect the kids to take them up the mountain. Everyone followed and gathered around a little stage. After a couple of speeches and some more horn blowing we all moved over to be closer to the tepee shaped pile of wood and waited expectantly for it to be lit. As the sun went down we started to see some activity around the lake ie. Some smoke and some fire works. So now it was time and woosh up went the flames. However they quickly died and for the next hour they struggled to get it burning. As it grew dark we saw more fireworks from all the towns around the lake so it was quiet something. The Swiss then brought out some chocolate and wine so after what equated about a glass and some joviality most of us stumble back down the hill to sleep. I found out later that Frazer arrived a bit late and stayed until 3.00am.

Thursday 2^nd

Slept in this morning and skipped breakfast. Got up and remade the room so the bed looked unslept in and went up to reception to confirm I had a room and they gave me a key so I went to the little shop and bought a few things to kill time and then went and swapped my stuff over and went to lunch. I saw John and returned his key. I was now feeling more comfortable, as being there when I shouldn’t have made me feel most uncomfortable. Went for a coffee which I sat for a long time consuming. Near me sat Cricket, David and Julie from the USA who were organising their learning track. The museum of the property and MRA and I of C was in the adjoining room so I spent some time in there, which I found fascinating. That afternoon I joined a walking group and went on a very slow doddle to look at the flora and fauna. Did some ironing then off to eat again, this time with the boys from Cairo and Korea. Early to bed.

Friday 3^rd

Arose at 6.00 to help peel carrots for lunch and dinner for about 350 people people with Yvette and Edmay….both dear old ladies from Lusanne, who come each year to do this job. Frazer needed new shoes so as he was free we went down to Montreau. We wandered around the market that I had seen on arrival and then some other streets and after a while we found the shops, however shoes were all leather and about $200 a pair so we were about to give up when we found a shopping centre so we ended up both buying a pair. We set off back up the hill but his car was having trouble with the steep incline and we received a dirty look from someone who zoomed past. Frazer headed off to a meeting while I went and sat in the garden overlooking the lake and the mountains. This is truly a beautiful place. Lunch once again…yes three meals a day and afternoon tea. I once again sat with someone different. Barry, Krish and Tony from the UK and Mike from Melbourne. Other people I have met are Yui from China, John and Helen from Adelaide, Jean from Belair via India, Elenor from the USA, Will, old John Richard and many others from the UK. I had dinner with Theresa from Ghana…at home she and her husband have a frozen food importing business esp. apples from England…..she may contact me to see if SA has anything she can buy!! This was her last day here ……There are six conferences which run consecutively.

Saturday 4^th

Today the conference “Tools for Change” begins and for the next week I am about to find out what this place and this conference is all about as I have lobbed here totally ignorant of it all. However I haven’t been writing my journal regularly and so my memories are somewhat mixed.

But first, up early again to peel vegys this time I started with potatoes but as John was crying too much I took over the onions…this time we had over 400 to feed. An opening ceremony inside was followed by an opening ceremony outside. This conference also included a Global Indigenous Dialogue Group and three people from first-nation tribes in Canada offered prayer circles every morning similar to the large one organised for this opening. We split into the group we had chosen ….mine was the purple on with English and German as the main languages available. Our group/community was led by Phoebe and Semhar from the UK…This community of about 30 people, was the group I would get to know the most as we did learning activities and kitchen duties together. I chose cooking with about a dozen others but the number went down as often people didn’t show up. Others did the dining room. Some of the people in the group:

Anna-Maria from Rotterdam who was my introductory partner became my most consistent companion as we seem to show up at the various functions together and on time (unlike most other people!!??) She is a bubbly girl of about 29 who is a nurse for the Salvation Army and works on a boat caring for the down and outers who are sick….one day she hopes to go to the tropics to work with someone like “Doctors without Borders”…..she also has a degree in tropical agriculture. She has a twin brother who looked like Zeig one of the organisers so she felt he was there with her for the week!!

Sathya a lovely girly from India who is currently studying neuro-biology or something like that, in Scotland.

Felicia from Nigeria…..but she bobbed only up now and again…I think she was swapping between groups and learning tracks!! …she told me her head is full of stories she wants to write down and share with others.

Natalya form the Ukraine but studying arts in Paris.

Rashad from Pakistan…he is a Caux scholar who is going home to start a new job.

Kinsi a happy girl from Somalia via the UK and her son Jaylani who is just so cute.

Hodan also from Somalia via the UK.

Swai from Tanzania who entertained us with his singing and his big smile, Samuel from South Africa who played the Sax, Abel from Zimbabwe and Marda from Ethiopia who showed us how to dance.

Ngan from Vietnam who was the sweetest funniest little girl and starred in one of the movies in the course that Frazer was involved with.

Gorg from Austria, Amy from the USA who is also a Caux scholar, Henni from Indonesia…she is an intern like Frazer, Ben a pastor from Nigeria via the UK, Kate from Switzerland via Canada..her husband a Caux scholar who was also in our group some of the time, John ..a well spoken and thoughtful man and his wife from the UK , Monica from Scotland and others whose names I didn’t get to write down.

Sunday 5th

Up early to attend another Cree ceremony before breakfast. I discovered that others in the group were also unsure of what there role at the conference was in the way of contributing and learning.

After lunch our group were in the kitchen to clean up for a while ie washing dishes but just easy stuff like mixing bowls…and then to the learning track to meet another group of people who had chosen this one of the ten courses offered. After dinner back to the kitchen for clean up again. Then some light entertainment at 8.30 in the big hall.

Monday 6th

I missed the prayer circle this morning as I was too slow getting up. Attended the main hall gathering and community group in the morning.

After lunch we did our first session in the kitchen under the guidance of Erica a German married to a Swiss German who lives in Caux. She is very nice and was able to give us each a task so that we were able to put the evenings meal together…..at the end our group gathered around a bench and sang some African songs….which was great fun.

In our learning track we looked at creating space for change….ie: listening thus making a connection, modifying oneself to make corrections to ones attitude and listen internally to choose a direction using 4 standards of morals…ie honesty, unselfishness, purity and love.

That evening there was a little expo of I of C action groups and I found one about spending about 7 months working in India and Asia developing people for leadership roles along with there support group…the whole concept appealed to me so I arranged to catch up with Alex on Saturday to find out more.

Tuesday 7th

Free of duties today so attended all the meetings. Jean and Pari ran the morning meeting with a discussion on inner guidance systems…it was beautifully presented. Know and name your chattering monkeys…buddi …ask the right questions, wait and listen deeply. After lunch with Victor, Eric and his wife from Moldova, I enjoyed an afternoon of yoga and meditation conducted serenely by Visier. It was great to revisit this after nearly 20 years. That evening we watched a film called the Imam and the Pastor… a true story of reconciliation between two men after there communities had been involved in long bloody feuds in Nigeria ( I think).

Wednesday 8^th

Well there was a buzz in the air today and the schedule was changed around as Kofi Annan was popping in for lunch and a visit. I was on lunch duty again and made dahl, then attended my course for a bit, had lunch then offered to help a bit in the dining room. The gathering today was a few speeches … a cross section of people telling their story of change (incl. Kofi from our group being very serious for a change) and then Kofi who was a bit bored by it all I think, added his bit…”what can we do to fix the problem?” Afternoon tea was pretty lively today and I took lots of photos of incl. one with Dorothy from Uganda..and promised to email it to her. The nights activities were two fold…first a talk from one of the old original members of the group and then a talk by an Inman on “What is Islam”.

Thursday 9^th

I got up to attend the circle this morning but it was inside as for the last few days we have been sitting in the clouds and it was raining. The mornings gathering was run by the GID with Ray from Australia giving a speech on the Aboriginal situation. It was concluded with a pipe ceremony conducted by Will. The afternoon was free but I decided to stay in and did lunch clean up on my own as no one else showed up.. Had dinner with Bo from Sweden ..he is one of the coordinators of Frazer’s track, Vi from Melbourne the beautiful daughter of Visier and Pari and Flora from Germany..an intern..yes her name is Flora!!!! At 5.00 I attended a lecture presented by Visier on the GID. It was an uplifting talk about the disconnection of the indigenous people of the world….mention of “sorry day”, their anger, their spiritual and cultural dislocation, Aust. Healing Trails (taking refugees to country towns and sharing stories with the locals, the events in Nagaland. The evenings entertainment was provided by the GID group. The best part was some games and dances run by the ladies from Japan. .

Friday 10^th

David presented this mornings gathering on communicating the message and closing the gap on the core message of peace building and thinking of the best ways to do this……use our quiet time.

It was a winding down day today and in our communities we were given a “preparing for an honest conversation” work sheet. We were asked to apply it to something we had to reconcile with ourselves and I kept thinking of Alex’s celery story. By the time I was half way through I was feeling pretty low and I guess because I was tired it all got a bit much!! Jean must have picked up on it and came to speak to me after the meeting had finished. Our group was on for cooking again in the afternoon and we made windmill peach pastries

The final meeting of our course/track looked at the cycle we can go through in our mid years (and other times)

ie..go for it / energy and drive, ….

doldrums/need to be reinspired…..

cocooning/dreaming,………

getting ready/what, where to learn.

The evenings entertainment was a mish mash of volunteers and was good fun. We had a mime game which Victor and Bo did their best to send haywire, some drumming and dancing from Africa, Zeig’s juggling!, Sam on his sax, David’s Edelweiss and the kids doing some fill in stuff.

Saturday 11^th

Had breakfast with Will and Jocylyn (Meiti people) from Canada. The mornings session was started by Krish who told us the starfish story and then some talks. The conference was then concuded and down the hill for a final prayer circle. I spent the afternoon sitting in the sun…..hooray it is finally out again after a lot of rain and even some landslides that blocked the rail line. Dinner was with Alex and others to discuss India. The evenings entertainment was Scottish dancing which was full of laughter but exhausted before the end I went off to organise my stuff and get to bed.

Sunday 12^th

The day I climbed my Mt Everest!

Up at 3.30 and joined Frazer and two others to climb to peak of Rochers de Naye. It was dark and a bit scary on the rocky track and my leg around my left knee felt weird. However we pressed on and as the sun rose we were greeted by the most amazing views of the sun striking the mountains. Unfortunately the weird feeling in my leg turned to severe pain so I had to drag myself up the last hour…which meant for a very slow trip, four hours instead of three. However I made it to the 2045mt height to watch the serenity of the sun rising and the coming and going of the clouds which at times enveloped us and then it was clear again. From the look out down to the restaurant/train station was unbelievably difficult and so as we sat drinking hot chocolate it was decided I should go down by train. I was therefore late back to clear out my room but not to worry. I then went and found a coffee and had a power nap! I had organised to give the Swedes a lift down to town with Frazer when I was ready to go so I stayed for lunch and fiddled around in the IT room only to see them hop in someone else’s car. As it turned out I was glad because Frazer had lent his car to the Moldovans who had put petrol instead of diesel in it so it was no good to take down town. I decided to walk. Well given my leg was no better it took me three hours but apart from the pain I enjoyed the various pathways down to reach my hotel, the Auberge de Planches (yes Spanish), which is in the old section of Montreau. I unpacked, showered as I was pretty hot and sweaty, and walked down the hill to the lake and the promenade. I chose a restaurant in front of the Eden Palace Hotel overlooking Lake Geneva. There I sat in a state of bliss as the weather was perfect, the surroundings were perfect, the glass of wine perfect (there was no wine at Caux) and the salad OK, to watch the sun set and the people parading by. It had been a long and adventurous day so after I climbed back up to the hotel about 10.00, needless to say I slept well.

Monday 13^th

I woke early and put the TV on to see what was happening in the rest of the world and of course was greeted by news of trouble in Timor, a landslide in ??…I then found the CNNNNN channel but couldn’t stand it. By this time I was feeling awake and ready to go again. After breakfast I wandered up and down the narrow streets in this old part of town and visited a local museum which showed the history of around here. It also housed some collection …one being of thimbles which was fascinating …going back to the ring style of the bronze age through to the highly decorated silver, porcelain and the plastic of now.

I then headed for the shops and bought Frazer some new clothes. The Swiss franc is about the same as the Aust. Dollar and clothes seem to be about the same price…..and it is sale time here! Given the sizing here is a bit different I took a while making decisions on what would fit him. Up the hill again to off load the booty and then into the old area in search of somewhere to eat. However it seems that August is holiday time and so they were mostly shut or they had now outdoor area so I went down the hill again and ate at another lakeside restaurant but not as nice as the night before. Once again by the time I got back up the hill it was late.

Tuesday 14^th

Frazer hitched a ride down the hill and back again to collect his new clothes and a pump and repair kit for his bike that I was going to borrow, until he discovered it had a flat tyre! I went down to the train station and hired a bike for the day. This turned out to be a perfectly wonderful day and I discovered the joy of riding a good bike and the realisation of how much distance one can cover so easily, except for the few steep climbs as I couldn’t master the gears, but I didn’t fall off and I didn’t have to wear one of those annoying helmets so I had the breeze in my hair. I headed east along the promenade and stopped at the old castle where I spent an hour or so looking around. I then headed off to Villeneuve, and then up the valley of the Rhone into the woods and wetlands, on a bitumen path all the way, hearing the occasional tinkle of cow bells. Others were on bikes, some on roller blades and others just walking, but mostly I had the place to myself! Then into the open through fields of vegetable gardens, into the woods again until I met the Rhone where I headed along the levy upstream for quite a way until I reached a bridge to cross over and then back down the other side towards Lake Geneva and the village of le Bouveret. Then I had to ride along a main road to St Gingolph, but most of the time I rode on the footpath as now and again I go a bit wobbly! When in town I crossed the border into France without realising it and then went down the hill to the port as I had decided to catch the boat back. I had an hour to wait so I sat with my feet in the water and relaxed. As this happened to be the 100^th anniversary of this old paddle boat it was fairly full when it arrived and there were some people in costume and quite a few locals on board to celebrate. The crossing back to the other side was very pleasant and it was interesting to see things from the other side especially Caux. These were the towns that I had viewed from Caux day and night for over a week.

Although the boat called into Montreau I decided to stay on and get off in Vevey. This is also a delightful town but I only had an hour and a half to get my bike back by 7.00 so I set off again along the promenade with detours again via the main road. After dropping off my bike I went down to the promenade again and ended up back at the Eden Palace for dinner again and once again every thing was perfect including another ideal calm balmy evening. Once again another late evening to stagger back up the hill and crash.

Wednesday 15^th

Decided to revisit Vevey and do a guided walking trip so I caught a local bus back but I just missed one as I was on the wrong side of the road (still can’t get used to driving on the right!) and then when I got off I took a wrong street so I missed the walk. I ended up wandering around the shops and the lovely old streets of the old part of town. I visited a food museum but apart from the fact that it was once the head office of Nestle and a wonderful collection of old cutlery it was a tad boring for me! Feeling tired I headed back to Montreau on foot along the same route I had ridden yesterday. As I had eaten lunch I wasn’t hungry so went back to the hotel to catch up on this neglected diary. About 11.00 I had had enough and went to bed.

Thursday 16^th

Today! I have finished off the last couple of days of this and am about to check out and head down the hill again. The weather has changed and the rain is falling and when I get to the station I will decide where to go! Italy or

As the days run into weeks and the weeks run into months I have become more relaxed from the demands of daily work but more unsettled and frustrated at not being able to finalise matters of business and loose ends in other financial matters.

I swap from one task to the next and repeat the same things that can’t or won’t be sorted. I dream of my long term plan of a holiday in Europe. I google holidays and air fares and resort/spas. I feel I am achieving nothing and I can’t envisage any forthcoming change.

I see an ad for a off-season holiday package to Phuket so on the spur of the moment in the pouring rain I duck in to the travel agent and book it. However although I let Ian know he is to take a holiday I am reluctant to inform him I am going on to France.

Suddenly there is a flurry of action. Accountants to see, financial advisers to see and solicitors to see.

Wednesday 14^th June

…..usual start with a walk with Skye…some jobs to tidy on the computer…then off to the finance people and come away with big fees to look forward to and doubts galore as to whether this is the right way to go and an appointment for a future meeting I won’t be able to attend.

Thursday 15^th June

Power cleaning up of the house day……like a cut snake, boxes are ferried to the shed…..loads of washing and ironing are done…floors are mopped and vacumned….shelves are dusted and tidied…dinner is prepared for Bruce, our house guest for the night..then collapse…..little sleep…too much to do.

Friday 16^th June

Cases are half packed, cheques written, envelopes readied, lists made, more jobs on the computer re work….bought my ticket for the TGV and printed it out!! But not looking forward to getting from CDG airport to Gare de Lyon station. International drivers licence collected, medicare formsCollected the broken TV which remains broken.

Saturday 17^th June

Another day of getting organised and lawns are mowed, I have no idea what I did this day! Oh yes Raelene called in to discuss her problems and Mum followed soon after to check how things were going so I told her of my dilemmas. then a lovely Dinner at Lesley’s with Geoff & Jeanie.

Sunday 17^th June

Did some more jobs then took off to Meningie to deliver Skye. Found Travis trying to rig up some irrigation so I gave him a hand and wandered around a bit to check things out. Made up the bed and cooked some dog food, soup for Travis and the a roast for our dinner. Watched a bit of telly then early to bed. However had a restless night with Jack barking at ghosts.

Monday 18^th June

Woke at dawn and jumped up to clean up a bit, said goodbye to Skye with a few tears, before going straight to the solicitor to write a will. Stopped to look at TVs and washing machines on the way home to replace the broken ones at home and Halidon. Packed Ian’s bag…that was easy.

Tuesday 19^th June

Awake by 4.00 am…..Off to the solicitors to sign the paperwork. Home to pack and do the last few things…..pack…well I threw in some more stuff and was in too much of a tizz to put in any real thought…..god it is getting heavy though! Mum arrives at 12.30 and waits patiently for me to get organised and in the car. Off to the airport a little bit late of course. Got through ticketing at the end of a long queue then through immigration and the girl said off to France for a year …..I went weak at the knees and said no Phuket for 10 days. More checks and packing and unpacking of the hand luggage…..frustrating especially with an middle eastern mother in front of us with her family crossing the line and annoying airport security. Finally on the plane and off we go….a few tears of anxiety let go.

The usual flight events of landscape and town spotting, the food, etc. but with new technology to master with the in-flight movies/music/etc. Watched a movie and a short show, listened to some music, and ate more food before the lights of Malaysia appeared as we descended in to KL airport.

What a place clean and bright but huge. Saw a sign that said Hotel so took a long walk only to discover it was not our hotel. Ian’s withdrawal symptons were kicking in the sweat started to drip and it was my fault he had to walk so far. Discovered we had to catch the air train to another building, go through immigration and then walk even further to the Pan Pacific only to discover they run a shuttle buggy when we got there. Rather a grand foyer and typically pleasant of the big hotels. Ian went off for an overdue cigar and beer while I juggled papers and stuff, and ironed our shirts to be ready for tomorrow then collapsed into sleep.

Wednesday 20^th June

Woke early before the reminder call, checked out refreshed and being ferried back to the terminal made it any easy start for Ian. Caught the air train only to discover we went to the wrong terminal so caught it back again and found our spot. We were very early so found somewhere to have a coffee and I logged on to KL airport service provider to send a few emails ( technology is amazing). Flight to Phuket was easy, changed some money and our escort and then off to the other end of the island to our hotel.

The roads were somewhat chaotic with little regard for road rules but hey they know what they are doing.

The Access Resort & Spa provided to be a beautiful welcome. Attractive staff, surroundings and facilities. After settling in, unpacking etc. into the cool pool for a Mai-Tai cocktail with some girls from Hong Kong.

Following this we relaxed and then we went for a walk down to the beach. Typical of a lot of the island it was a tad grotty but full of life. Spent a little time near the beach, then wandered back again with Ian sweating profusely but surviving . Then enjoyed a Thai meal that was way too big before collapsing early into bed.

Thursday 21^st June

Big breakfast…..out of the ordinary for me! Met with the tour agent and organised some tours. Then took the hotel taxi to Patong Beach….whoa this place is seriously over the top tourist bedlam or it would be in peak season. Hundreds of shops, bars, restaurants etc. A tad humid today especially in the confines of a tiny shop. Bought cigars, a beer to have on the beach, shoes and sandals and then went to the department store only to find things cheaper! Found the ADSL cable I forgot to bring! And more sandals!

Ian was worn out from my whirlwind shop and the humidity so we took a tuk tuk back to the hotel. Into the pool for Ian with the ubiquitous beer or two or three while I checked out my purchases.

2.00pm dragged Ian away from the pool bar

and proceeded to the spa room for a few hours of rejuvenation….thai massage, jacuzzi, facial for me and a scrub and a pedicure as well for Ian.

The massage had an Unbelievable effect and I found myself melted to the table. The facial just topped it all off!

Changed and proceeded to dine by the pool for a simpler dinner……we were the only customers as this place is quiet at the moment. Again early to bed, tired and relaxed.

Friday 22^nd

Up at 6.00 for an early breakfast as we were to be collected at 7.20am. We proceeded north to collect other people from other hotels. Zoomed north along the main road back towards the airport before turning off to wind our way through rubber plantations to a bay on the north east side of the island. With the staff and 14 others we boarded a boat and proceeded to Phang Gna Bay which is an area that you probably would recognise from promos of Thailand for the obelisks and many high small islands.  We visited several islands with hongs,some with low entrance tunnels, some pitch black one full of bats the otherwith diamond like stallectites. Once inside it was so quiet but it was spoilt by people talking.  The sides are very high and straight up but vegetation manages to cling to the sides despite having no soil in which to grow.

 In one we were greeted by little monkeys who came down to be fed by our bananas. Apparently they swam there from the mainland and seeing them come in to the water, maybe they did! Lunch was provided on board with a large selection to choose from and lots of fresh fruit.

All up a great day on the water!

Saturday 23^rd

Today we decided to take it easy so we started with finding a tuk tuk out the front and do a trip up the mountain to see the new big Buddha which is still under construction. Being perched on the top of a mountain it is visible from many parts of the island. When finished it will be a gleaming golden. Arrived just as the Saturday ceremony with the monks was about to start. Locals bring food to share after the ceremony and donate money for the construction. 

Decided to spend the afternoon catching up on this journal while Ian went off to the bar.

Sunday 24^th

Up early to be collected for a trip to the Phi Phi islands. The driver was running a little late so he went full bore to collect the other people and get to our departure port. Boarded a speed boat that accommodated about 20 people and zoomed off towards the islands. We sat out the front with some also a German couple Christy & Ralph, some men from Dubai, a girl from England a Polish couple and a young ex Gold Coast/WA couple .First stop was Maya Bay of “The Beach” fame. The sand is very silky and that abuts an area of lush vegetation and track which went through to another bay, which we visited by boat later for some snorkelling. The bay was almost a ¾ circle with high hills on all sides. We had to wait for two of the guys from Dubai so from then on little Mohammed was the but of many jokes.

At the next stop Jim gave me some spray for my goggles and I discovered the joy of snorkelling without fogging up and found I could create a vacuum so that the goggles wouldn’t leak all the time so I thoroughly enjoyed this swim in the beautiful clear water even though most of the coral appeared dead. Next stop was at the main Phi Phi beach where other Adelaidians, (Jim, Ron, and wives) and proceeded to burn nicely. On board were we had lunch at one of the places there. We shared this time and time on another little sand island with Christy & Ralph who works for IBM in Germany. I spent the return trip inside out of the sun while Ian proceeded to burn a little more. The trip back proved a little rough as the waves picked up so the boat would often crash down as it came off the wave which served to keep us awake. Another early night was in order having had a little too much tropical sun.

Monday 25^th

Rest day today but we decided to phone Maz to take us for a little trip down the south of the island. We viewed Kata & Karon from a lookout spot and proceeded down to the promontory where he pointed out a spot where once there were buildings but now nothing as they had been washed away with the tsunami. We then proceeded to the other side of the island to Rawai Bay which is a popular spot for local people and a departure point for people taking long tails to the nearby islands. In between torrential down-pours we decided to visit Phuket town to do a little bit of shopping and have a look around. The Butterfly place sounded good so we wasted a bit of time there also before heading home.

Decided to catch up on emails etc. while Ian went off for a beer. Unfortunately the computer dropped out and the airconditioner went off so maybe the power supply has caused some damage as now the computer keeps dropping out. As a novice internet user I am unsure of unsecured sites and virus’s so I endeavour to try and fix the problem. Unfortunately the problem persists. The hotel computer girl helps me log back on and says the rain causes problems!? At dinner a couple from Finland (and little Ben) were sitting next to us. He works in computing and had a look and couldn’t find anything wrong.

Tuesday 26^th

Booked in for a tour of old Phuket but I think they subbied us out as we revisted some of the area we went yesterday before nearing Phuket. We did visit one old Sino-Colonial home which appeared to be in original condition. I loved the internal open air pond. Also revisited the large Wat Chalong complex and discovered some more about it. They also took us to a huge jewellery factory and despite the high sell, managed to leave empty handed. We did buy cashews however at the next stop as they coat cashews in many flavours, eg. chile, chocolate, sesame seeds. We decided to see some more instead of returning to the hotel so we proceeded to a neighbouring island via a bridge to visit the “sea gypsy” village. Given that there is no social security in Thailand these people exist off the sea and live very simply…..lots of inactivity from what I could see. We then went back to the old part of town to wander around the old streets looking at the narrow buildings with there Chinese origins. A pesky tuk tuk driver followed us around until we had had enough and then said yes to a ride back to the hotel. He stopped off at another jewellery store where I bought a string of black pearls and a ring. On return to the hotel we dropped in for a foot massage with a back and head massage thrown in before the usual pool paddle. Ian stayed by the bar while I returned to sort through some stuff in the room. By the time we set off to find somewhere else to eat Ian had had too many beers so the walk down towards the beach and deciding on where to eat proved too hard for him. We settled on a seafood place and I selected a snapper to be deep fried whole with lemongrass sauce while Ian chose Thai lobster (like our Morton Bay Bug) Thermidor. Food settled the situation down!

Wednesday 27^th

Today up by 6.00 to be ready for a long trip (about 12 hours) to Kaho Sok National Park which is the oldest rain forest in the world. Oops slipped down the bank to my awaiting canoe in the pouring rain (well we were in a rainforest). With someone to paddle us down the river we were able to take in the jungle scenery and sheer limestone cliffs. Lunch cooked by a local lady was followed by an hour or so on an elephant following a track past their owner’s huts into an area where they fed, then further on in the rain through lush vegetation. Today’s tour was hosted by a Dutchman who has lived on Phuket for 12 years, and he provided us with some interesting information about the island and Thai customs. Dozed off to sleep on the way home. Dinner was followed again by an early night.

Thursday 28^th

Collected after breakfast to be taken for a soft sell session, with free gifts for attending, on joining a holiday club. However not of any interest to us. Returned to the hotel for more swimming, and letting Ian know of my trip to France, and then another massage/scrub followed by more time in the pool and another cocktail and some more sun. One could die happy about now! Unfortunately I had to pack while Ian had a few too many more ales. Wandered off down to the Red Onion for a beaut meal before tuk tukking to a caberet show which was a freebie for us. Talk about glitz over the top lady/boy show. However it was an experience! Found a tuk tuk who took us home at 100 mph so that was a bit of fun!!! Around the bends and up and down the hills.

Friday 29^th

Up early to be ready for our 7.30 pickup to the airport. Sad to leave after a lovely holiday. Checked the bags in one to Adelaide the other to Paris. Had lots of time to kill at KL so decided to do a trip round. Turned out we had a car to ourselves. The driver gave us a 5 hour snapshot visit to KL and Malaysia. Sultan’s palace, old Malay museum, batik factory, leather factory, chocolate factory, city buildings, the tower, the Petronus buildings - all metal and glass and very tall, traffic jams and lots of new development. I have no real desire to return! Back to KLIA to find a smoking room and a drink while killing time as Ian’s flight was 9.50 pm and mine 11.30 pm. At the table next to us was a man writing and shuffling paper which he then proceeded to rip up. Boarding here and in Phuket proved simpler than Adelaide airport. So off we both went, Ian in a rush, to our next “thing”.

Saturday 30^th

After a long and restless flight ,sitting next to, as it turned out the man from the bar, a fidget who covered his head with the blanket and coughed and slept in every position possible and got up several times I found myself approaching Paris skimming along on top of a thick blanket of clouds. It felt amazing. Touchdown 6.15 am, quickly through passport check and baggage claim. A kiwi approached me seeking help to get to her accommodation in the 14^th district so we stuck together to work it out. A gentleman overheard us and as his pickup didn’t arrive he offered to drop us off so that was simple and easy after I had been expecting to have to work out the local trains.

Unfortunately I had to wait until 1.00pm. to catch the TGV to Le Cruesot. Ray phoned to confirm I was in so I settled down with a book to read amidst some people watching. A little unnerved by the soldiers walking around with machine guns! Toilets were down stairs so I had to hang on as I couldn’t drag my bag down there. No one accesses the actual platform until the train is announced then everyone charges off in fear of being left behind as the train loads and departs very quickly. When the time came to board I found the escalator stopped so someone had to help me haul my bag up…not much fun. Settled in for a very quiet, very smooth, very fast ride. Ray was there to greet me and haul my bag up and down some more stairs.

Back to the picture post card village where he and Mary live, stopping off at friend Coreys to say hallo, and then was given the bedroom while Ray will take the lounge. A walk around some of the village and then a drive around to the other house gave me an insight to my surroundings. Fed Giddy the goat and the chickens.

Rolling hills, thick green grass, hedges of brambles and vines, old stone buildings, ancient church, little shops, barns, charolais cows, big fat snails and slugs, lots of vegy patches, quaint little cottages, big old houses, a few grand homes and a chateaux on the hill. Just beautiful! Salad, pasta, deep sleep.

Sunday 1^st July

Awoke to a cool change and grey skies. Wandered around some more streets of the village, past the very old Romanesque church and up to the chateaux. Beautiful grand building owned by Irish lawyers and therefore not lived in except for short holidays. Took a ride to the next town Grury, to see a fete but drove on. Visited another house that Ray cares for only to find out it was one I looked at on the net back in Aus. Sweet place a bit like Marys. Visited David an eccentric Englishman who lives surrounded by his collection of old stuff and with his Drake who shits all through the “house”. Long unkempt curly grey hair, little pot belly and mismatched clothes with the fly half undone…full pan of pork on the stove which apparently he eats all at once. He showed me more of his stuff and his vegy garden. Ray gave him eggs and he gave us potatoes and a couple of huge marrows. Back to the village and Ray read the paper while I picked cherries from Ray’s little orchard and did some washing.

Monday 2^nd

Took off over to Gueugnon to the supermarket to buy a few things and $3.50 bottles of good wine! Not a very pleasant town as it is more industrial…stain less steel is the main thing. Went for a long walk around to the other house and back the other way to see more of the surrounds. Fed the goat and the chickens. Continued picking then de-pipping cherries. Marrow and potato soup for dinner!

Tuesday 3^rd

The wintry weather has set in. Went over to the farm and fiddled around all afternoon trying to fix the computer and log on to the net and connect to Ray’s printer, only to find nothing would work so this was somewhat disappointing and draining. De-pipped the rest of the cherries and eventually made my four pots of jam. Marrow & potato frittata for dinner!

Wednesday 4^th…today

Caught up on my journal in the hope that I will eventually be able to log on and download it without the computer crashing. Another grey day so in the afternoon I curled up in bed to read but had a nap instead. Went for a walk on my own until the rain came. TV goes on about 5.00 for more sky news on the “bombings” in Glasgow and London. More marrow and potato soup for dinner!

Thursday 5^th

After feeding the menagerie we set off for Gueugnon to visit an open air market…..the usual clothes, meats, breads, vegys, roast chicken etc. bought some soft goats cheese from a local farmer, figs from Israel and big fat French prunes. Ray zooms around so I just caught a glimpse but to me it all appeared a tad expensive for an open air market….black clouds looming so headed back home. To shake off the wintery blues we decided to take a walk up around the chateau along a walking path and back to the rear to visit the glacerie which is a conical shaped building with a thatch roof and the pit underneath it is very deep. Apparently they filled it with ice from the lake in winter and then it served as a cooler all summer. Sore eyes and nose problems today. Sat up until 11.00 watching telly.

Friday 6^th

Woke to an even greyer wetter day so we went to Luzy for something to do. Took my camera this time and saw a sweet town and visited a small museum to view old implements including clog making then I snuck in to the town hall to look at some ancient tapestries. Met up with some ceramicists who live near Issy. Visited another open air market and bought some carrots for Giddy. Also the tourist office and collected a bundle of brochures mostly written in French of course. Drove back in the rain and then I drove around to the farm…luckily all right hand corners so driving a left hand drive manual car was easy (except for reverse)…this time! Mary phones every morning and night to say hallo to Ray but today she is down as everything is getting to her, the students, leaving England, not being here, worrying about squeezing in the rest of her stuff into her little car. However Ray reassures her with only two weeks to go.

Saturday 7^th

Beautiful sunny day so we headed for Grury to do the garden that Ray cares for. So I cleaned the pool which I found difficult with the blinding sunlight off the water while Ray mowed and whipper snipped. Then I did the large area with the ride-on (Meningie style) except I kept hitting piles of dirt thanks to the resident moles and as I didn’t duck quick enough, I knocked off a few green apples which I took home for Giddy…. pinched some cuttings for the little garden at les petite Taupieres. The neighbours opposite Eric, Delphine little Enzo and the grand parents, arrived so we popped over for a welcoming pernod. They live an hour north of Paris and his job is to balance the wheels of the TGV so I have asked him to come to Adelaide to fix the wheels of the trains that go squealing past my bedroom in the middle of the night.

Sunday 8^th

Ray headed over to the other house so I decided to do some well overdue cleaning. Given that there is a tad too much furniture in this little house it proved a bit of a challenge so I only did one section. I tossed out a three legged stool that served as a covered shelter for a cocktail of chemical bottles. Ray returned to watch the Tour de France so I went for a walk and took a few photos including inside the old church which is 11thC by the way. Back in time to see half the cyclists fall. Killed some time as we had been invited over to the neighbours again. We thought for dinner, but it turned out to be just nibbles and more pernod. Ray manages to communicate enough to carry on some sort of a conversation and I managed to get the gist of most of it. They are very easy going and it was quite fun. Returned home to find something else too eat and opened a bottle of wine and sat and chatted until after 12.00!

Monday 9^th

Set off early for another market at Marcigny which was bigger and more colourful than the others. Lots of rabbits of all shapes and sizes, chooks, birds and even guinea pigs. We then went for a wander around some back streets to discover some amazing old old buildings. Ray was feeling poorly (hung over but he blamed it on the eggs I cooked!) so he sat down for a café while I went for another wander and bought a couple of panne de raison. On recovery we set off towards home stopping at Digoin’s boat yard to check out some barge/boats as this town is the intersection of a couple of canals and the Loire. Walked across the aqueduct bridge which one day we may motor over…amazing engineering given the age of it. From here we returned to Issy along some different back roads, stopping to look at Ray’s favourite farm house sited next to a small lake in a secluded little spot not too far from Issy. This area really is beautiful with the road winding through thick wooded areas and as the sun found the wet road, patches of mist were created and this flowed through to rolling hills with beautiful views. Arrived home mid afternoon for a quiet time, a phone home, a “Happy Birthday” call to Frazer who was too busy to talk, dinner, a walk and to bed early to re-read some more of one of my favourite books, “My family and other animals”. After dinner went for another walk around the village.

Tuesday 11th
Awoke feeling better but to another grey rainy day and Ray lighting the wood stove as we decided it was an “inside day” to spend the time reading and relaxing. Had a kip then rose to make some vegy patties for dinner, changed into some evening clothes and went off up to the church for a concert of Renaissance and 20thC music. It was the most beautiful sound as the deep base and the sweet soprano voices resonated around the high dome. It was a group of Dutch people:16 singers, 2 violinist and their conductor. There are quite a few dutch people who live here so they were the main audience (as it wasn’t publicised at all). The church was lit up so it didn’t have quite the cold austere atmosphere as it did the day I went in to look. It was just wonderful. Went home to study the maps to work out our spot to view the Tour de France on Thursday.

Wednesday 12^th

Slept in again did some washing, went up to buy bread etc then took the car to Gueugnon to do some shopping on my own. Managed to drive on the right side of the road and not hit anything or anyone but had a few stressful moments! Potted around the garden and after dinner watched that classic old Gerard Depardieu movie “Jean de Florette”.

Thursday 13^th

Set off north towards Autun to watch the Tour de France. Wound our way up the mountains and found a lovely spot on a slight incline near the tiny village of Glux-en-Glenne It was about 11.00 so we set up our picnic table and then went for a walk down hill and had a café. Spent the day people watching etc and a walk in the woods. When the caravan entourage arrived it was fun as they throw out freebies and loud music. There were so many cars, motor bikes etc. Chatted to an ex cyclist who proved to be quiet interesting re his knowledge of the sport and the drugs side of things. Finally the bikes arrived about 4.30 but it all happened so fast that I missed most of it while I mucked around with my camera!!